Emergencies take many forms. There are standard procedures to use based on the emergency with which you are presented.
Following are various scenarios with the appropriate course of action. You may need to bring various techniques into one emergency so continue to assess and react according to your observations – First Aid is practical care.
Choking
Causes and signs of choking:. Choking can be caused by objects stuck in the throat, such as food, toys, balls, and other foreign objects.
Trauma to the neck, throat, tongue swelling, or other facial injuries can also cause your pet to choke. An ill or injured pet especially one who has ingested something toxic or poisonous can also choke on his or her own vomit, if you can visibly see an object stuck in the animals throat and the animal is not breathing or as respiratory arrest, you may attempt to remove it by using utensils such as cooking tongs, or forceps. Form an occupational health and safety stanpoint we recommend that you never attempt to remove it with your finger or hands as you may be severely bitten.
Remember that your own safety determines you ongoing ability to assist your pet in an emergency.
Cats and Furballs. Cats do not 'cough up' furballs – they vomit a furball as the fur that they ingest during grooming accumulates in their stomach and as it is a source of irritation it is most frequently vomited. (TIP - If you groom your cats – there is less chance of this furball forming and for a possible bowel blockage)
Signs of choking are:
-
A loud noise of cough when the animal tries t breathe out
-
A rasping noise when the animal tries to breathe in
-
Gagging or retching as if trying to vomit “Dry Heaving”
-
Rapid Shallow breathing
Arrest and Resuscitation
In an emergency situation, breathing and pulse, the normal signs of life, may not be present.
To be prepared to provide first aid for your pet during an emergency, you must understand the difference between respiratory arrest and cardiac arrest.
In medical terms, respiratory arrest occurs when there is no longer the ability to breathe. Although breathing has stopped, the animal still has a pulse.
Cardiac arrest occurs when the contractions of the heart cease, leading to lack of oxygen in the blood, loss of heartbeat and eventually death in animals in respiratory arrest.
In humans, the primary cause of death is cardiac arrest.
Rescue Breathing is the emergency procedure to deliver air to a human or animal that is not breathing but still has a pulse.
This technique is frequently used in water related emergencies.
Resuscitation is an emergency first aid procedure performed when both breathing and pulse cannot be detected.
The term CPR (cardiopulmonary resuscitation) describes the technique used to revive humans and animals then they are unconscious or appear to be dead.
The CPR technique is designed to replace the functions of the heart and lungs together. Although these emergency lives saving technique can revive the heart and lung functions, it is crucial to also return the brain to normal functioning.
The technique known as CPCR (cardiopulmonary cerebral resuscitation also known as CPR) is designed to restore normal heart, lungs, and brain function.
The most important role of a first aid provider is the concentrate on rescue breathing and chest compression techniques while the animal is being transported to a vet clinic/facility.
These techniques of basic CPCR are described in this course. You have also been provided with a visual reference source for these techniques in your video listings previously provided - it is crucial that you reference both methods to get a full understanding of the best methods to be used in any emergency situation. What you see and hear done, along with reading materials and an assesment will help you to truly gain skills that you can use in a real world scenario.
If you experience an emergency situation with your pet or other animal requirs emergency life support, quick and appropriate action us crucial.
Take the necessary steps to save your pet’s life, and use caution at all times to keep yourself safe.
Transport your pet or other animal to your vet as soon as he/she is stable for follow-up and further emergency treatment.
NOTE! CPCR should ONLY be attempted when the signs of death (arrest) are clearly present - these signs are:
-
There is total unconsciousness
-
Breathing has stopped completely
-
There is no heartbeat or pulse
CAUTION: Performing CPPR on an animal who does not meet all of the above criteria could result in serious injury to both the animal and the first aid provider.
A review of previous Video Course material provided is recommended - the following will help you with your assessment which follows:
CAT & DOG CPR:
Lay the animal on it’s right side (this keeps the heart at the top towards the First Aider and works best, 15 chest compressions, one abdominal squeeze to return blood to the heart and one breathe to provide oxygen to the lungs for the next set of chest compression – repeat process.
Cat CPR:
CPR- is an emergency procedure used to exchange air in the unconscious cat. This video shows you how. For more information you can also visit:
How to perform CPR on a cat
If your cat is not breathing by itself and is unresponsive, you can use an artificial breathing to try to restart the breathing process. First, you have to find out what technique to use in the unconscious cat.
Follow this QA:
Is your cat breathing? Try to see if the chest is moving up-down and you can feel the air out of its nose/mouth against the back of your hand or your cheek.
If YES, take cat’s tongue and pull it all the way out to free the passage. Watch for reaction from the cat.
cats dew claw pad location
If NO, check cat’s pulse. Does it have the pulse? The easiest place to find the pulse is right under the Dew Claw pad (see the picture) on the wrist equivalent area (under paw). Works both on the front or the back foot. Also, watch video below to see alternative areas, if you have trouble finding the pulse under the paws.
IMPORTANT: If your kitty has a pulse, perform Artificial breathing. If not, use artificial breathing with cardiac heart massage.
How to perform Mouth-To-Nose Breathing on a cat:
- put a cat on a flat surface with its left side up, so its heart is up and not stressed by weight.
- Clean any secretions (or any foreign things) out of its mouth. If it’s difficult to reach, perform the Heimlich maneuver.
- Pull the cat’s tongue out slightly and, while its mouth closed, blow softly into kitty’s nostrils. You will see the chest rise up, so let it come back naturally down. Normally, any extra air you will blow will come out through the cat’s mouth. It’s perfectly fine.
- If for some reason the chest doesn’t rise and fall when you breath in-out, use breath more forcefully and lightly seal the cat’s mouth with your hand.
- Continue breathing like this once every 5 seconds until the cat regains breathing on its own, or until the heart beats.
Rescue Breathing
Remember - CPCR should ONLY be attempted when the signs of death (arrest) are clearly present:
You MUST determine that the animal is truly unconscious and not breathing.
Gently touch them and speak to them to see if they will respond. You could be SERIOUSLY injured if you attempt rescue breathing and the animal suddenly awakens
Always follow these steps before you begin rescue breathing in and unconscious animal:
1) Extend the head and neck and pull the tongue forward to open the airway (OPEN)
2) Remove any debris from the animals mouth (CLEAR)
3) Look at the chest to see if there is any rise and fall motion (OBSERVE)
4) Listen closely for any breath sounds for 10 seconds (Listen and Observe)
5) If they are not breathing, begin rescue breathing (START IF JUDGED THIS IS NEEDED)
The ABC’s of Rescue Breathing:
-
Open the airway (straighten/outstretch the neck) and clear the mouth of any debris:
-
Close the mouth - partially so that you can blow air into the muzzle/mouth/nose
-
Then, use one hand to close the lips to ensure no air escapes while you are breathing in
-
Using your other hand, feel the windpipe and locate the “Adams apple”.
-
Position your hand over it so your fingers are on one side and the palm of your hand is on the other side
-
Gently apply pressure to both sides of the windpipe to prevent breathing into your pets stomach instead of his/her
-
Continue at a rate of 15-20 breaths per minute (until pulse and breathing become present & continue)
BE AWARE OF AND AVOID THE FOLLOWING COMMON MISTAKES OF RESCUE BREATHING:
-
Breathing too fast (you must allow intake and breathing out of the pet – or you will overinflate the lungs)
-
Breathing too hard (Which can damage the animals lungs)
-
Breathing air into the stomach instead of the lungs (Chest rising with breaths – NOT the stomach!)
Chest Compressions
You can provide artificial circulation to your pet or other animal by giving chest compressions. In performing this kind of emergency life support, your goal is to provide enough blood flow to the brain and the heart to restore sufficient function.
You should understand, however, that these chest compression procedures alone will not provide the normal blood flow to the brain.
If you are alone and find that you must perform chest compression, you should do so in combination with rescue breathing.
Provide two consecutive breaths followed by fifteen consecutive chest compressions, and then repeat the procedure.
If you are able to enlist the assistance of a second person, one of you can focus on providing rescue breathing (Providing 15-20 breaths per minute) while the second person provides chest compressions at a rate of 100 compressions per minute at the same time
When performing chest compressions in a cat or a very small dog, your will actually compress the animals heart.
The animal should be positioned on their RIGHT side (down) – left side up.
Place one hand up and under the chest and your other hand over the animals back. Position your hands so that the fingers and thumbs of your hands meet.
Be careful not to compress too hard and be sure to relax as well as compress. Do not poke down: use a steady, even motion allowing the chest wall to come up between compressions.
Lay the animal on his/her side. Position the animals back up against your body where the chest makes a ‘v. In performing chest compression, you are actually generating pressure within the chest which helps move blood flow during an arrest.
The key is to get at the highest part of the chest because it is impossible to push the heart of a large animal. You will literally push down on the side of the animal’s chest.
There are several different options for positioning your hands:
1) Place one hand on top of the other with fingers clasped together
2) Place both hands flat with your fingers extended, one hand over the top of the other.
3) Make a fist with one hand, placing the other over the fist.
4) Do not punch at the animal when giving chest compressions, instead, push down firmly and evenly. Be careful not to use too much force as if you do use too much force you could break the animals ribs.
REMEMBER - the smaller the creature - the less pressure you should use!
You are trying to compress the heart to help it to pump blood around, if you have a larger animal you use more pressure - the smaller the animal the less pressure you should use. An Adult German shephard and a 6 week old german shephard puppy are a good example of different techniques and pressure should be used. The pressure needed on the adult would SEVERLY injure the puppy.
Injury and illness - Common signs:
As a pet owner or carer, you know how a healthy pet looks, acts, smells and feels. Changes in behaviour, the way the pets body appears and even his/her smell can be early indicators of illness.
Do not ignore your own instincts of you suspect something is wrong.
Be prepared to seek assistance from your veterinarian if any of the following changes occur:
· Irregular breathing, shortness of breath, prolonged panting
· Unusual coughing, sneezing, gagging or vomiting
· Swelling, redness, irritation or discharge from the eyes
· Discharge, crusting, running or bleeding of the nose
· Scratching, twitching, shaking of ears
· Discharge or odour from ears
· Change in colour, amount or frequency of urination
· Change in eating or drinking habits
· Change in body weight
· Hair loss (* Not normal seasonal ‘Shedding’ of old coat), changes in colour of coat or skin
· Peculiar odours from mouth, skin ears
Seizures
Seizures occur when the brain waves become abnormal.
During a seizure, and animal may experience uncontrollable and sometimes severe shaking. The animal may become unconscious or exhibit a lack of alertness/awareness. The animals mouth may be open or closed, and he/she may experience involuntary vomiting or flow of saliv
a. Many animals are also likely to urinate or defecate during a seizure. Most seizures last only a few seconds, but they can last longer. A seizure last more than a minute can be very dangerous to your pet.
A seizure and a fainting episode may look very similar, but they are NOT the same thing!
Dogs and cats can both experience seizures and fainting episodes. While shaking of the body is common during seizures, and animal experiencing a fainting episode usually does not shake.
If fainting, he/she typically goes from normal behaviour to collapse and loss of awareness, and then back to normal immediately after the episode.
Following a seizure, the animal may seem confused or disoriented for a brief period of time.
If your pet experiences a seizure, you should take precautions to protect both of you.
Remove any furniture or objects near the animal to prevent injury. Protect the head by using a pillow, blanket, towel or article of clothing, use this as a buffer if there are hard objects where teh pet may hit & hurt themselves.
Keep your hands away from the animals mouth; a convulsing animal may have involentary jaw movement and may unknowingly bite you.
DO NOT attempt to reach into the animal’s mouth during a seizure as serious injury could occur - Keep any unprotected hands AWAY from the mouth.
Also, do not try to hold his / her tongue. Contrary to popular belief, dogs and cats do not swallow their tongue.
Attempt to time the length of theseizure as this information will be very important to your vet.
POINTS TO REMEMBER:
-
Contact a vet and get there ASAP
-
NEVER reach into the mouth of an animal during a seizure
-
Wipe away saliva or foam using a towel or blanket to allow the animal to breathe
-
Use a towel , pillow, or blanket to buffer the animal from injury
-
Never tie the animals legs together as this can cause them a very serious injury
-
Protect the animal from stairways, furniture and other hazards that could cause further injury
-
Use a blanket or towel to help steady the animal after the seizure, but never restrain it
-
Be prepared to offer first aid if necessary
Vomiting and Diarrhoea
Vomiting may be caused by a variety of factors, including change in diet overeating, poisoning, disease, parasitic infections, car and motion sickness and food allergy.
Although vomiting is not uncommon in cats and dogs & other pets, it may indicate a serious problem and should not be taken lightly, particularly if other symptoms are present. Other factors to consider include:
-
Repeated vomiting over a short period of time
-
Vomiting accompanied by dizziness or seizures
-
Higher than normal body temperature
-
Diarrhoea along with the vomiting
-
Presence of blood in the vomit
Diarrhoea may also be caused by a large number of factors. Like vomiting, it may have resulted from the ingestion of something inappropriate or may be caused by parasites or other factors ad could indicate a serious problem.
The presence of blood in the bowel movement warrants the immediate attention of a vet.
The presence of black (Charcoal black) bowel movements indicates bleeding from the stomach or small intestine and also warrants immediate attention by a vet.
Black bowl movements can occur in dogs and cats under medications (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs – which should only be prescribed by a vet – so consult with them about the dark stools to ensure that these are normal if the animal is taking these)
Animals experiencing vomiting and/or diarrhoea may become dehydrated. Do not feed your pet until you consult your veterinarian.
Never give your pet any medication of any kind without the specific advice of a vet.
Remember human drugs are NEVER suitable for pets – they CAN KILL THEM!
Only a VET is qualified to prescribe or provide animal grade drugs)
Milk: do dogs and cats need milk? Kittens and puppies receive their mother’s milk – they have no need for other milk products which can cause harm - as many animals have lactose intolerance or may have a reaction to other elements found in cow milk.
This can actually lead to irritation of the digestive system and lead to diarrhoea. If an animal is needs a milk product there are some Pet milk products they may be used as they have had most of the irritants removed from the formulation:
IMPORTANT NOTE:
If you have rescued baby animals DO NOT provide them with cows milk as most animals are unable to digest the lactose. It is better to hydrate them with standard Hydralyte solution (unlfavoured - make up the total amount and discard what cannot be used immediately) you can also add a teaspoon of honey to the total amount of the hydrolyte solution - this glucose and salts mix is a short term First Aid hydration ONLY. You should use a droper and not overload the animal with volume of fluids as this could make the animal choke or inhale the formula - which can be lethal. IMPORTANT - The native animal MUST be brought to a vet &/or a wildlife carer for EXPERT advise and care! (Please note that Native animal babies need the care of those who have done extensive specialist training in this arena!)
Until you can get this native animal to the vet/expert carer - keep them warm and keep them in a quiet, dark well ventilated area away from the interference of other pets and children as too much attention, noise or commotion is very stressful for any animal and can lead them into a state of shock which in iteself can be life threatening.
Diabetic Emergency/Hypoglycaemia
Dogs and cats can become diabetic just as humans do.
Diabetes is actually quite common in both these animals. If your pet has been diagnosed with diabetes, you should keep high sugar content syrup on hand. If your diabetic pet requires medication, keep an extra supply in your first aid kit.
Signs of a diabetic emergency (Low blood sugar) include depression, collapse or inability to move and seizures.
If a pet shows signs of low blood sugar, place a small amount of syrup on the gums and take him/her immediately to your veterinarian.
Bloat and Torsion
Bloat and torsion indicate an abnormality of the stomach causing it to enlarge.
Bloat indicates that the stomach is larger than normal, but remains in its normal position.
Torsion also indicates that the stomach is swollen; but has twisted or turned on itself, indicating a much more serious or potentially fatal situation.
Only and X-ray can determine whether the animal has bloat or torsion. Both of these conditions are SERIOUS and MUST be treated by a veterinarian.
Bloat occurs in any size dog (& other animals including humans!) and is most commonly associated with overeating (or eating too fast).
Dogs that eat an entire bag of dog food can develop what is often called food bloat. Treatment by a vet is required for a food bloat to resolve. Occasionally bloat can lead to torsion, which is a much more serious problem that requires immediate care.
Torsion is a life threatening distention of the stomach that most often occurs in large dogs. The dog’s stomach becomes filled with air, food and fluid that cannot be expelled. If this is not corrected within a few hours the pet may die.
If the pet keeps getting up and moving around like he’s uncomfortable, retches but is unable to vomit, looks extremely bloated, is depressed or is salivating a lot, go to your vet for immediate care.
These symptoms may be an indication of torsion of the stomach. An x-ray will allow the vet to make and accurate diagnosis.
Surgery is the only corrective treatment for torsion. Blood flow to the stomach and spleen stop during torsion causing the dogs to go into shock. Since the stomach cannot return to its normal position immediate surgery is required. Without surgery the torsion of the stomach will lead to tissue death and infections and complications leading to death.
The enlarged stomach is usually the first symptom of either ailment. The animal may attempt to vomit unsuccessfully. Heart and pulse rates will typically be slightly higher or higher than normal. The animal may appear restless, unwilling to lie down or reluctant to allow you to touch him/her. Do not give ANY medication – including antacids. Do NOT put pressure on the abdomen.
Keep the mouth and nose clear of any debris, including foam, saliva, or vomit, exercising caution and not to frighten the animals.
(KEY POINT: Transport the animal immediately to your veterinarian.)
Gastric and Intestinal Foreign Object
Gastric and intestinal foreign bodies are objects animals may have eaten which remain stuck in their stomachs or intestines.
Prevention is the best course of action. Make sure your pet’s chew toys are safe and do not have small parts which can be pulled off and eaten. Do not expose your pet to things he/she may be tempted to eat and keep all garbage well contained & covered.
Foreign bodies can include coins, string, ribbons, children’s toys, food wrappers, and just about anything your pet can find a garbage can!
If you know that you pet has ingested a foreign object, DO NOT attempt to induce vomiting.
The foreign object can get stuck in the esophagus (organ between the mouth and stomach) which is much more serious problem.
Do not give your pet any medication.
If a string is hanging from the mouth or from the rectum, do not pull on it as potential serious damage can occur. (it may be attached to something else which may perforate an organ if you try to pull it out!)
Some foreign objects may have components to them that could become toxic if they break down in the gut.
All objects should be assessed at the vets with all available known information made available to the vet to help in this assessment.
Some foreign objects can be removed using an endoscope and don’t involve surgery. However these objects will need to be removed surgically if it cannot be removed this way - or naturally through defecation. Any dog or cat or other pet that has a foreign object in the stomach or small intestine that is vomiting, has diarrhoea and/or is not eating will likely require surgery
Wounds
Wounds to your pet may take the form of abrasions, cuts and lacerations, bruises (contusions), punctures, and impaled objects. Any serious wound (if blood is gushing, the bleeding cannot be controlled, or if the animal is in shock) should be treated by a veterinarian immediately.
(Animals cannot heal all of their wounds by licking them. They can actually cause further damage to their own wounds by licking them excessively)
Controlled Bleeding
Bleeding can be the result of any type of wound or injury.
Bleeding can be external and thus normally visible, or bleeding can be internal (inside the body).
Loss of blood may lead to shock or even death, so controlling bleeding is a necessity. Proper animal restraint is critical to both, your safety and the safety of your pet.
An injured animal can be very unpredictable, particularly if they are in pain. You should assume that the animal is experiencing pain and act with due caution.
In most cases of external bleeding, direct pressure applied to the wound will control the bleeding, Wearing disposable gloves is advised when treating a bleeding animal. The blood may be coming from a vein, artery, muscle or bone.
If the blood is pulsating and bright red in colour, the bleeding is coming from an artery. Blood flowing from veins, muscles, and bones does not pulsate.
To control bleeding, apply direct pressure to the wound while transporting the animal to a veterinarian. Never apply a tourniquet to control bleeding as the risk of further injury is far too great.
Bandages made from clean, soft, absorbent material can be used, but direct pressure using any available material (i.e. clothing, t-shirts etc) is still preferable to a bandage if you do not have one on hand.
If using a bandage, you can secure it with tape, but do not use rope of string as this may tie it off too tight - this can cause a loss of circulation and can lead to tissue damage.
ALWAYS use extreme car when handling the animal to avoid causing further stress.
Note: Tourniquets should not be applied to control bleeding. More damage could be caused by using them. Applying pressure to a wound should be used instead.
Bandaging Wounds
If you are bandaging a wound in the event of an emergency before transporting to the vet, it is far more critical to cover the wound with a clean material that you have on hand rather than waste time trying to find proper dressings. Time is of the essence. Applying pressure to control bleeding and seeking immediate medical vet assistance is the best course of action!
Shock
Shock is a life threatening condition, which occurs as a result of a serious illness. It can result in collapse and lead to death.
Shock occurs when there is a collapse of the circulatory system (heart, blood vessels and blood) due to blood loss, fluid loss, low blood pressure or heart failure.
Blood loss occurs when there is either external or internal bleeding. Although there may be no obvious sign that bleeding has occurred, the volume of blood in the vessels becomes insufficient for the body’s needs, resulting in shock.
Fluid loss occurs through vomiting or diarrhoea which results in dehydration, loss of blood volume and often leads to shock.
Decreased blood pressure may be the result of infection, poisoning, pain or heart failure
Signs of shock include:
-
Pale or white gums
-
Rapid heart rate
-
Rapid or weak pulse
-
Rapid or weak breathing
-
Lethargy, drowsiness, or loss of consciousness
How to handle Shock
-
Stop any visible signs of bleeding
-
If the pet is unconscious, place him/ her on his/her side and extend his/her head forward
-
If the pet is conscious, allow him/her to make themselves comfortable
-
Do NOT give your pet food or water
Thermal Burns
There are many kinds of thermal burns - Thermal burns are caused by excessive heat & sometimes Excessive Cold (Dry Ice burns)
-
Hot liquids
-
Fire and flames
-
Scalding water and other liquids
-
Hair dryers
-
Hot metal
-
Heat lamps
-
Room heaters ad radiators
-
Hot stove tops
-
Sunburn in dogs and cats with white fur colour, little or no fur coat and pink (non pigmented skin)
If you actually see the burn occur, you will be better able to describe it to the vet.
If you do not see the burn occur, assess the area where the pet was located to try to determine the cause.
Your vet will need as much information as possible, including the source of the burn and how long ago it occurred
If you are dealing with a heat related burn, flush or immerse the burned area with cool cold water (not near freezing as this can cause other problems!).
The cold water will draw the heat from the burn, preventing further damage to deeper tissues.
DO NOT apply butter grease or ointments to the burned area. Cover the burn with a clean moist cloth and transport the animal immediately to your vet.
Electrocution and Electrical Burns
Electrical contact can cause the most serious types of burns and can cause respiratory failure and death.
There is frequently a burn across the middle of the tongue and lips, particularly with puppies and kittens as they tend to chew and bite everything.
If the skin is burned, the burned area may not show damage to the superficial skin although severe damage may have occurred deep within the burned area.
In contrast, you may see severe signs of an electrical burn including seared flesh, reddened skin or blisters.
The animal may suffer respiratory distress, rigid limbs, a glassy stare, and may collapse and go into shock. In severe cases, the animal may already be unconscious when you find him/her.
If you know or suspect your animal has suffered an electrical burn, TAKE CARE - take immediate steps to remove yourself and the animals from any danger.
Be careful of any live electrical wires and turn off the electrical power source if possible before touching the animal.
An animal that has suffered an electrical shock or electrical burn should be covered with a blanket or coat (to help maintain body tempurature to reduce the potential clinical shock) and taken to a veterinarian immediately for medical treatment.
Chemical Burns
Chemical burns are not as common as thermal burns. The typical chemical burn is due to a pet investigating or licking some type of corrosive chemical.
The burn is often due to a pet ingesting or licking some type of corrosive chemical such as a bleach or disinfectant.
Chemical burns are often on the surface of the tongue and may affect the esophagus.
If the pet has been exposed to a chemical, he/she may have a swollen tongue, have difficulty swallowing, drool or paw at his / her mouth, and may show no interest in eating or drinking.
A chemical burn in the area of the mouth will often result in a whitening of the surface of the tongue (but not always).
Chemical burns to the skin should be rinsed with large amounts of fresh water to remove the chemical.
Take precautions to protect yourself from the contaminant by wearing rubber gloves where possible.
Cover the burned area with non-stick gauze dressings if you have any, to prevent your pet from licking the burned skin and further injury.
ALWAYS seek the advice of your vet in the event of a chemical burn.
Drooling dogs: Dogs may drool as a sign of anticipation of food, or affection, or the animal may have men exposed to a toxin. Keep an eye on them and check the signs and symptoms described in this text!
Sprains and Strains
Sprains and strains are injuries to the soft and connective tissues of the body, and typically occur in the joints of an animal’s limbs.
Sprains are injuries to ligaments, tendons and other connective tissues and are usually fooled quickly by rapid swelling in the joint.
Strains are injuries to muscles or hr locations where the muscles become tendons. An animal that has suffered a sprain or a strain will usually not walk normally or may refuse to walk at all.
Treat sprains by applying a cold compress o the swollen area, Wrap the area gently but firmly with a clot or gauze bandage.
Try to keep the pet quite and discourage activities which may affect the injured area. Consult a veterinarian for treatment.
WARNING!!!!
Do NOT give a pet any medication unless it is prescribed or provided by a veterinarian as many human/over the counter drugs are toxic &/or fatal to pets.
ONLY a trained professional can determine the cause of your pets injury/illness and the proper course of treatment.
NEVER Give any medicine to a pet before consulting a vet!
Fractures (Broken Bones)
Occur most often from direct force, frequently the result of being hit by a vehicle. Other causes include falling, jumping or being dropped from heights, getting stepped upon or kicked or other types of trauma.
All fractures need veterinary attention.
Some fractures are obvious and easily detected due to twisted or distorted limbs or bones poking through the skin. Other fractures are less obvious. Symptoms include coldness and numbing to the injured area. This is a sign of restricted blood flow due to damage - the animal needs to get to the vet for immediate care to limit damge to the nerve and other tissues that this injury has created!
The animal may be unable to walk: He/she may cry out in pain or attempt to bite out or snap or attempt to scratch you, if the area surrounding the fracture is touched.
Swelling can occur with a fracture. Avoid splinting except in the event of an obvious fracture below the knee joint as the improper use of splints can result in further injury.
Transport the animal securely in a box, pet carrier, on a blanket or improvise a stretcher with the animal safely secured. Seek immediate veterinary attention.
Splinting
Splints are temporary devices used to stabilize broken bones and avoid further damage to the injured limb.
If the application of a splint causes too much movement or pain, DO NOT proceed with a splint!
You can always use the option of stabilizing the limb from movement by gently yet firmly supporting the limb against the animals own body, or stable weight bearing stretcher (i.e. a board or door) and get them to a vet gently and quickly!
Providing support to the fracture will help reduce pain and swelling. If the fracture is open (i.e. the bone is protruding through the skin), gently apply a clean bandage or soft cloth over the wound to prevent dirt or other contaminants from getting into the wound. Always take the necessary precautions to protect yourself and the pet. Remember an injured animal is unpredictable.
If you are able to apply a splint, and not cause adtiona pain and damage to the animal - begin with any firm material, preferably using two pieces, one on the inside of the limb one on the outside. Examples of materials you can use to create a splint include newspaper, magazines, sticks or other sturdy material.
If you use sticks or other hard material, you should first apply a layer of bandage material to the limb, such as a towel, sock or soft cloth; gently & firmly fasten the splint with a rope, tape, gauze or strips of cloth. (but NOT too tight as you MUST NOT restrict circulation)
You may also wrap a towel around the entire splinted limb and secure it with a rope or tape to provide additional protection.
Remember the splint is only a temporary treatment until you can get the animal to a veterinarian for professional treatment.
Key Points:
-
Splints are temporary devices used to stabilize and prevent further injury
-
Improper use of a splint may cause more harm than good
-
Any firm material can be used as a splint
-
Placing and animal on a board or stretcher will also help keep the injured limb stabilized
-
Splints should only be used on limb injuries below the elbow joint
Birthing and Newborn care
Most animals giving birth are good at taking care of their newborn. Occasionally a mother may not take care of the newborn at all.
First aid for a newborn is similar to the concept of performing CPR: make sure that the newborn is able to breathe and make sure that they have pink gums which indicate adequate oxygenation and blood pressure.
Puppies and kittens may or may not be born within a birth sack; the mother generally removes the sack and eats the placenta. If the mother needs help you can first remove the sac from the babies face and you may begin to remove to clear the fluid from the mouth and nose using a towel or a suction bulb. (A turkey baster can be used if it all that is available).
Once the baby is breathing it will begin to vocalize or scream. Begin to clean and dry the baby by rubbing the sides of the chest, this should stimulate more vocalization and gums should begin to turn pink, if not, keep repeating the procedure clearing the mouth and the nose and rub the side of the chest vigorously. DO NOT shake the baby around or up and down to remove fluid as you may damage the neck & back or vital organs severely.
Once the baby is moving, screaming and is nice and pink, the umbilical cord can be cut. Apply a clamp or tie some dental floss, sewing thread or other thin material about 2.3 cm from the baby’s body.
Only ever cut an umbilical cord on the PLACENTA side of the knot.
Baby animals like puppies and kittens spend approx 90% of the first week sleeping the rest of the time nursing.
They will group together for warmth and comfort and do not vocalize much. If a baby is isolated for the rest and the mother, does not nurse, cries and vocalizes a lot, it is most probably sick and should be taken to the vet to determine what is wrong.
Problem births:
Dogs and cats can have problems giving birth. It is more common in dogs than cats. Any cat that is straining to give birth requires IMMEDIATE attention by a veterinarian.
The only first aid you can give is to keep the cat comfortable as possible on the way to the vet office. NEVER attempt to squeeze the abdomen thinking you may help; you will not be helping,
In dogs, generally speaking, if the dog is straining for more than 30 minutes and there is no puppy delivered seek veterinary attention. If the dog is straining to give birth and is vocalizing in pain as well, seek vet attention. The time between puppies should not exceed 1-2 hours if the dog is acting normal. If 1-2- hours passes in between puppies and the dog is making some effort to deliver without success, please call your vet. DO NOT attempt to squeeze the abdomen in the hopes that you will help – seek expert vet help!
Poisoning and the Environment
Poisons are toxic substances that cause illness or injury when your pet comes in contact with them. In spite of your best efforts, your pet may be exposed to a toxic substance. Potential dangers include:
-
Ingested poison: a substance your pet swallows
-
Food, Chemicals, Medications, poisonous animals (such as Cane Toads!)
-
Topical or contact poisons: a substance absorbed through physical contact
-
Inhaled poison: Gases, fumes or vapours in the air your pet breathes
Types and potential sources of poisoning - Many substances commonly found in your home can be a potential source of poisoning to your pet. The list of poisoning dangers is staggering. We will review the dangers from the following:
-
Food (including food scraps) and Drugs
-
Chemicals
-
Household items
Common Food and Drug Dangers
Your pet’s body is quite different from the human body. Many food items that are beneficial to humans can be toxic to animals.
Common drugs that are harmless to people can be highly toxic and/or fatal to dogs and cats. A few items of note to keep in mind include:
-
Over the counter and prescription drugs, including pain medication, cold and allergy medicines, vitamins, diet pills and other medications can all be highly toxic to animals
-
Certain foods, including chocolate, coffee (caffeine) avocado, onions, macadamia nuts, raisins, grapes and yeast dough can be highly toxic
Attention - Hazards!
Is chocolate really fatal for dogs?
Absolutely! Depending on how much chocolate is eaten. The more chocolate compound concentration that is contained in the chocolate, the higher the level of toxicity. Even if the amount of chocolate consumed is not fatal it can still cause severe stomach and pancreas problems. If your pet ingests chocolate seek immediate veterinary assistance.
Are bones good for dogs?
Bones, especially small ones and particularly poultry bones, can cause life threatening conditions, including choking, laceration of the intestine and constipation.
Other products of high toxicity
Mothballs (Naphthalene flakes etc) are toxic to cats and dogs. The ingredients can cause serious illness and death. Cats are especially vulnerable to mothballs. Even if the mothballs are not swallowed, just the fumes themselves can be dangerous and can cause liver damage. Mothballs, if used should be kept away from pets and kept in a pet proof container.
Common Chemical Dangers
Most of us have homes with many different types of toxic chemicals used for cleaning. Chemical poisoning most commonly occur when pets:
-
Eat or drink a tainted substance
-
Clean a toxic substance from their fur
-
Eat a poisoned pest (could be a Cane Toad or a stinging or poisonous insect)
Items to be aware of:
-
Household cleaning products, including bleach, fabric softener sheets and toilet bowl cleaners
-
Common chemicals stored in a garage, such as paint, oil and petrol/gasoline, drain cleaners
-
Poisons for pests (rodent poisons, insecticides, mothballs, snail bates)
-
Antifreeze (contains ethylene glycol which has a sweet taste that is deadly if consumed)
-
De-icing salts (can cause paw irritants that can be licked off and cause irritation in the gut)
-
Swimming pool treatment supplies
-
Flea – control products if used improperly or on the wrong type of pets (they are NOT interchangeable – dog flea treatments can be toxic to cats!)
Common Dangers (Objects, Toys etc)
Objects that seem harmless can become a danger to your pet if used improperly, or accidentally ingested. Some common items that can be hazardous include:
Household cleaning products, including bleach, fabric softener sheets and toilet bowl cleaners
Common chemicals stored in a garage, such as paint, oil and gasoline, drain cleaners
Chemicals used on lawns and gardens such a fertilizer, herbicides and plant food.
Poisons for pests (rodent poisons, insecticides, mothballs, snail bates)
Antifreeze (contains ethylene glycol which has a sweet taste that is deadly if consumed)
De-icing salts (can cause paw irritants that can be licked off and cause irritation in the gut)
Swimming pool treatment supplies
Flea – control products if used improperly or on the wrong type of pets (they are NOT interchangeable – dog flea treatments can be toxic to cats!)
Common Toxic Plants – Danger!
Common house plants and certain species of outdoor plants and bulbs can be toxic to your pet.
Although the effects vary from plant to plant, ingestion of toxic plants can be serious ad could result in kidney, liver or heart failure.
Many of the most common poisonous plants are found in homes and outdoor gardens.
This includes oleander, rhododendron, azalea, holly, sago palm, tulip and narcissus bulbs, shamrocks, kalanchoe, cyclamen, Lilly of the valley, caster bean, yew and philodendron. All lilies are highly toxic to cats. All parts including the pollen can cause death if ingested – pollen groomed of the fur with the tongue can cause death.
Ensure that you access your home and yard for risk. Removal of poisonous plants both indoors and outdoors is the only truly safe option.
When you remove these plants, we recommend that you would have them covered (or contained in a black plastic garbage bag to prevent re-generation) or otherwise destroyed and removed from you property quickly to prevent contamination.
A good source for information about Weeds Identification – here is a link that will take you to as major offender when it comes to skin rashes in dogs: Asthma Weed – if you have it in your yard, or around your house – your pets may be suffering from skin conditions! Our advice – get rid of this weed! :
http://www.weeds.org.au/cgi-bin/weedident.cgi?tpl=plant.tpl&state=&s=&ibra=all&card=H68
What to do if a pet is poisoned
Keep a good pet emergency handbook and a first aid kit in your home.
Know how much your pet weighs, since treatments are often measured in proportion to the animals weight.
If you think your pet has consumed any dangerous products, the first thing to do is determine what substance is responsible.
Read the product’s label for a list of ingredients and for any instructions on accidental ingestion. Call your vet immediately. If your pet needs to make a trip to the vet a better idea of what your pet may have ingested. (take the package &/or info with you &/or a sample of the product with you!)
Observe your pet’s symptoms carefully. If she/he is vomiting or has diarrhoea, you may want to take samples to the vet to help with diagnosis.
The treatment will vary according to the poison, and whether it has been ingested, inhaled or absorbed through the skin.
Should you induce vomiting?
If you suspect that your pet has been poisoned see immediate veterinary treatment. You should only attempt to induce vomiting under the strict guidance of your veterinarian. (The vet has procedures and medicines that assist the animal – unskilled attempts may cause more harm to the animal)
The environment
Hypothermia and Frostbite
Pets are susceptible to cold temperatures just like humans. It is a common misconception to believe dogs and cats can withstand cold temperatures because of their fur.
Whilst some larger dogs may be suited to some cold outdoor temperatures than smaller breeds or cats, extreme temperature or extended exposure times can result in injury to event the hardiest of animals.
Frostbite is damage to tissue that occurs during extreme cold exposure or extended exposure during times of cold conditions.
Frostbite typically affects the tips of the ears, tail and foot pads. Death of the tissue in these extremes can lead to the loss of limbs, toes or parts of the ears.
Signs of frostbite include ice on the animal’s body, shivering, bright red tissue which turns a pale colour followed by darkening or even blackening.
To treat frostbite, apply warm compresses to the affected area. Immerse only an affected paw or limb.
DO NOT IMMERSE YOUR PETS ENTIRE BODY.
Gently pat the area dry after it has been warmed, but do not rub. Wrap your pet in a blanket to keep him/her warm. Infection can occur in damaged tissue; it is important to transport your pet to a veterinary professional for treatment URGENTLY.
Hypothermia occurs when the body’s temperature is lower than normal. While hypothermia may range from mild to severe, it is a serious condition and should be treated immediately.
Mild hypothermia occurs when the rectal temperature ranges between 35 to 37 degrees Celsius (or 95 & 99 degrees Fahrenheit). A mildly hypothermic animal may be shivering, appear weak, and lack mental alertness.
Moderate Hyperthermia occurs when the rectal temperature ranges from 37 to 32 degrees Celsius (90 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit). Signs include low pulse and slow heart rate, no shivering slow or shallow breathing and a disoriented state.
Sever Hypothermia occurs when the rectal temperature is below 32 degrees Celsius (90 degrees Fahrenheit). Signs include no shivering, lack of heartbeat, difficult breathing and coma.
Diagnosis:
Using a lubricated rectal thermometer, a vet will take your pet’s body temperature. Take the necessary precautions to protect yourself from being bitten as most animals do not appreciate having their temperature taken!
If the animal is not breathing, perform basic life support.
Wrap the animal in warm blankets or towels and place them near a heat source. Use warm water bottles wrapped in towels to prevent burns. If possible actively rub the limbs, chest and abdomen (if frostbite is evident - then avoid rubbing those areas affected).
When transporting the animal, he/she should be placed inside a vehicle. Never transport an animal suffering from exposure to the cold where they will be exposed to lower temperatures again like a wind chill factor be being outside of a vehicle. Again, Vet care should be sought immediately!
Heat Stoke
Heatstroke occurs when there is a dangerous increase in body temperature, in excess of normal body temperature.
Although dogs suffer frequently from heatstroke, cats rarely do. Dogs can only dispel heat and cool themselves by panting since they do not sweat like humans.
Their only true sweat glands are on the pads of their feet. Typically, heatstroke occurs on a hot humid day when the animal is left in a car (PLEASE NEVER LEAVE AN UNATTENDED ANIMAL IN A CAR – EVER!), exercised or play too vigorously, or has no shade or protection to escape from the sun.
Dogs who have existing medical conditions, such as a heart disease, severe arthritis, and obesity, may suffer from heatstroke on a warm day without any level of activity at all.
Signs of heat stroke include heavy panting that does not go away while in a cool environment, gasping, vomiting, depression or unconsciousness, weak or high pulse, skin that is unusually warm, drooling, inability to drink water, and bluish gums.
Heatstroke is a life-threatening emergency and can quickly cause death. You should contact your veterinarian immediately and take emergency treatment steps.
To treat heatstroke, place the animal in a cool location, continue to pour cool water over the entire body.
Place wet towels on the head, neck, feet and chest. Place a fan on the dog, and cool your vehicle as much as possible before transporting him / her to an emergency vet centre.
Motion sickness (car, Sea, plane)
Like humans, some pets are susceptible to motion sickness. This may be the result of anxiety, fear, being confined or true motion sickness.
Motion sickness is caused by movement in different directions (when your pet is standing or sitting in a moving vehicle), or when there is a loss of visual contact with the horizon.
This can cause an imbalance in the inner ear. Simple measures on your part can help to alleviate the potential for car sickness.
Plan to feed your pet in advance of your trip and not right before you leave (to allow time for digestion).
Allow your pet to see out of the car (to see an horizon),
Keep a window partially open to allow for fresh air flow.
Adequately restrain your pet and ensure that the window is not open enough that a pet can escape. (NOTE that legislation is underway – or may have been passed in some states and territories of Australia that there are laws to ensure that an animal is restrained by a special harness during transporting – whether law or not it is always highly recommended to appropriately secure/restrain a pet as a precaution to protect both the pet and the other travelers in a vehicle!)
On long trips, stop regularly to walk your pet and allow a potty break (It is also important for the driver to regularly take breaks on long trips – Stop, Revive , Survive!)
Typical signs of car sickness include yawning, drooling, dizziness, and vomiting. To prepare your pet for car travel, begin by simply sitting in the car together (to alleviate anxiety, make it a good happy experience), the progress to short car rides, followed by longer trips as they adjust.
Car Motion sickness –Tips
-
Do not feed him/her immediately before a trip
-
Open a window to allow fresh air, yet restrain your pet to prevent him/her from escaping
-
Position your pet where he /she can see out of the vehicle
-
Stop frequently to allow him/her to walk around
-
Provide ice chips instead of water as a source of hydration
-
In severe cases, ask your vet about the use of medication
Insect Bites
Pets stung by insects, particularly honey bees, wasps, hornets typically, may have allergic reactions.
Dogs may be stung on the nose or face while smelling the ground, some dogs are stung on the legs or disrupt a hive and are stung by many.
The most common sign of an insect sting is swelling of the face around the area of the sting or the presence of hives all over the body.
These signs are caused by an allergic reaction to the insect’s venom. Treatment by your vet is the only way to assure that the signs do not advance to a more serious reaction called anaphylaxis.
Do NOT administer ANY medication unless directed by your veterinarian – EVER.
Anaphylaxis is a life threatening allergic reaction that causes collapse and possible death.
Immediate treatment is warranted if you witness your pet being stung by even one insect, followed by a collapse. The breathing may be very slow and you may need to provide rescue breathing and even CPR/
Spider bites are included in this topic (although they are arachnids and not ‘insects) - If you see your pet react to a bite and find a spider, get your pet to the vet immediately.
Some spider bites may result in a non healing/ulcerating sore and this must be treated by a vet immediately it is found. Some spider’s bites can cause nerve problems and/or paralysis and can cause death.
Look for any collapse, shallow breathing or inability to move, hypersalivation etc... Then get the pet to a vet immediately!
Ticks
Ticks are parasites that will bite the host animal and feed off their blood.
Ticks can be very harmful to animals as the chemicals they release whilst feeding can be mildly to highly toxic and in some cases can cause paralysis and death.
Although topical flea and parasite medications can help to prevent ticks, they may not always protect the pet, as the application may have worn off. Therefore it is highly recommended to check the animal all over its body on a regular basis.
Pay particular care to gently check in crevasses and folds of skin all over the body, check ears, genitals and between toes for the parasites.
Affected Dogs that appear to be having trouble using it back legs, or cats that may be ‘staring’, looked ‘fixed eyed’ and drooling, losing function of its front legs – BE AWARE - tick bite could be the problem.
Affected Cats tend to be effected from the front progressing to the back and dogs from the back forwards.
If at all concerned - Immediately check it all over for ticks and but even if you cannot quickly find one, get the pet to a vet for emergency care as the paralysis tick toxin must be treated by a vet urgently. Multiple bites can be fatal quickly and sensitivity to their toxicity can increase over time – ACT QUICKLY!
Snake Bites
Seek attention immediately if you see or suspect snake bite. Animals that have been bitten by a venomous snake can collapse, go into shock and possibly die rapidly.
The wound at the site of the snake bite itself can also be severe and become infected even if the snake is not venomous.
Try to identify the snake if possible as this will give the animal the best chance of treatment. DO NOT try to kill or capture the snake as you may put yourself at risk.
A description of the snake will help your vet to treat your pet. It is wise to know what venomous snakes can be found in your area for your safety as well as your pet.
IMPORTANT INFO:
A snake bite may not be immediately obvious. A typical venomous snakebite has two distinct puncture wounds. (However, one fang only may have created a puncture). Bleeding and bruising may occur quickly. A non-enomous may appear differently, perhaps a U shaped bite – either way – get your pet to a vet immediately for assessment and treatment!
Treatment of snakebite
- Expect your pet to be in pain or distress and therefore take necessary precaution to protect yourself from harm
- Do not EVER place a tourniquet (binding bandage that inhibits circulation) on a pets limb to try to control the spread of venom – you could cause more harm – loss of circulation could mean they lose the limb!
- Do not attempt to remove the venom from the snake bite with your mouth
- Be prepared to supply basic life support in the event of shock and collapse
Now that we have worked through many of the TYPES of emergencies, and hazards we need to be aware of…
It is time for the …..
Questions for Assessment of this section: