You are about to begin the Third Module (also the final module!) of you PSA Training and induction course.

This means that you have already been deemed competent in Module 1 & 2, so.......

Well done!

By now you are aware that the care of animals entrusted to our care is of the outmost importance!

This module will be covering a few additional aspects of Pet First Aid, plus we will look at ways that you can best use skills to medicate animals that require this when you are caring for them.

We will also be providing you with some preparation skills and recommended emergency packs & tools that will help you to ready yourself for general dangers in the environment and potential hazards that can result from emergency, disaster and other situations that can occur due to human disasters or mother nature!

We also provide all carers with our Animal Behaviour Basics training in this third module - which can help you when caring for animals that enter your home or close environment and for those animals where we enter their environment.

We believe that by preparing you, we are making sure that you will have the best possible outcomes and experiences when caring for pets.

So - shall we start?

:)

 Training methods.

Resources: 

•     The First Aid Basics Course & Animal Behaviour online coursework (all here in this online format for your reference)

•      PSA – Pet First Aid Basics & Animal Behaviour Basics: Assessment Questions (Found at the end of each session for submission when complete)

•      Links (URLs) to good additional sites & Video content that adds additional assistance work is part of the session plan)

Hello and Welcome Back to start your next module of the Pet Sitters Australia (PSA) training course 

PET FIRST AID Basics & Animal Behaviour Basics Course is designed specifically to provide principles for short term emergency treatment, prior to seeking professional Veterinary care & to help you to work with & care for pets/animals in a manner that they find as stress free as possible and at the very least non- threatening to them.

It is designed to in fact, provide you with safe & knowledgeable handling and management methods and practices that makes pets/animals feel that they can trust us, so that they can get the best out of us as they exercise, work, play and even smooch with you! This is best for you, and is so much better for all animals for their improved emotional and psychological well-being too!

It is important to note that this course does NOT in any way equip any person who completes it, to be a Veterinary Carer or practitioner and in fact directs all persons to seek appropriate and professional Veterinary Practitioners Care, Assistance and Supervision at all times where practical. Of course, we at PSA are also your support in case of issue or emergency for helpful advice too.

The Pet/Animal Behavioural Basics Training DOES NOT entitle any entity to become a Trainer/Practitioner as a behaviourist or to provide Pet/Animal Behavioural Assessment or support.

The Behavioural component of the course is provided to enable PSA Carers to work with and introduce themselves and their pets/animals with practical behavioural management and control.  It provides a basis of methodology with understanding of animals need for empathetic, tolerant and patient verbal and non-verbal communication.

Training is for provided as a basis of practical knowledge for in home/at home environment management (feeding/cleaning – Appropriate & adequate shelter & pet care resources, preventable injury/illness/environmental risk management) & the good handling and management of pets/animals when with you.  

PSA hope that you are really finding our training courses valuable. 

By now you will know that at PSA we want to help our carers to have the ability and confidence to assist animals that are within their care, including their own pets and the pets of PSA Clients.

(NB: if you are inspired to rescue outside of these general parameters the training can help you - we recommend that those carers who wish to enter Wildlife rescue seek further training specific to this type of rescue - and by the way - If you do - that is fantastic!)

What you can expect from this course.

The courses PSA provides are practical  and we will help you as you work through the course similarly to our methods in Modules 1 & 2. 

You answer the questions as you progress through each module as they arise and if you have issues with any questions you may choose to respond again – or ask for more assistance regarding the course. 

Our goal at PSA is to help you to achieve this competency – so if you need help – we will be helping!

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There will be several modules provided which build up to complete the entire course:

You are about to begin Module Three & this will be achieved by providing reading relevant the assessment area you will find at each section of the module!

It is important to note that if you see a red asterix (*) next to any question then it is MANDATORY for this to be answered before you can move onto the next section or question (if you forget to answer a question - you will have a feint red line surround the questions requiring an answer - once you do select an answer you can submit and continue on!)

We shall now start Module Three!

All sections content will be outlined along with  related assessment sections – please work through these and answer as you go along!

The Subjects to cover are;

Training and Assessment section 3 Assessment - Checking your understanding of:

Pet Care: 

Feeding, Water (Hydration provision), environment cleanliness and maintenance

Medicating pets:

 - Restraining for medication, Pilling

Preparation for an emergency or disaster

 - First Aid Kit
 - Disaster Preparedness

Animal behaviour - care and management Basics

Introducing yourself to animals in various settings

 - Open environment - parks & streets

 - The pets environment (cars, homes &/or yards)

 - Your environment (your home, your yard, your family - including your pets!)

Animal Behaviour Basics:

- Dogs
- Cats
- Predator Animal behaviour (general)
- Prey Animal behaviour (General)
- Repitles & Amphibians

Assessment Questions for the above topics will be provided during the session. 

All questions have mandatory answers, you can save your submission or go back to it over time if you select this option.  Just know we are here to help you if you need it!

Module 3: 

During this course you will generally be asked to select a "Yes" or "No",  a "True" or "False" - or "Multiple Choice" as an answer

We recommend that for ALL multiple choice questions that you read and review all answers and then select the MOST correct answer!

Example Question follows here:

Section 1: The healthy, disease free environment

As pet care professionals, we have a duty of care to maintain &/or provide a healthy, germ free, disease free & parasite free environment for all pets.

Whether it is care provided to pets in their own home, or in our homes, we should always create and maintain a clean environment. 

Clean environments do NOT contain, uncleaned bowls containing 'old'  food or older drinking matter. 

Food Bowls should be thoroughly cleaned between meals, water bowls should be refreshed with new water daily where possible (For example: Thoroughly 'flushing out' a bowl with large amounts of fresh water water is appropriate if the bowl is too heavy to move).

Always remember - Animals can also suffer gastric and respiratory problems associated with unclean food bowls and utensils in exactly the same way a human can be, Pets  DESERVE a clean healthy environment.  It is up to us as professional pet care service providers to manage a clean healthy environment for them.

Old food or water can contain bugs and germs that can cause bad odours, this can turns the pets off their food and water, or worse, can make the animal sick from close contact with contaminated food or drink.

Home and yards environments should be clean and free of any fecal matter (Bowel Motions) or urine build up.  

When caring for pets in your home or in those of our clients, keeping the kitty litter cleaned & refreshed, keeping the the floor of small mammal cages/runs clean, and amphibian & reptile enclosures, birds cages/aviaries, etc free of this waste matter & free of dropped, dispersed food matter is of extreme importance!

Disease, parasites and fungus, & other health & life threatening things can breed very easily, develop in numbers profusely and grow in unhygienic environments.

Contamination with these can cause illness or even death - it is just not worth the risk!

PREVENTION is always better than having to find a CURE!

It is always better to have a healthy animal to care for than one that develops problem - there is always a lot more work involved in caring for the sick &/or injured, than there is in preventing an injury or illness in the first place!

When caring for pets we ask our clients to make sure that their pets have been recently wormed, flea treated and have current immunization. If you have pets and are caring for PSA clients pets in your home - it is important for you to make sure your pets are also up to date with their worming, flea treatments and immunization too.  (PSA recommends that you always keep your immunization records close at hand in case the clients wish to see how current the immunization is - We suggest that you create a PSA folder where you can show you PSA Pet First Aid Certificate of Competency and your copy of the PSA Public Liability Certificate of Currency which we send to you once you have completed all 3 modules of your PSA course)

Any unhygienic matters that can make an environment unclean or unsafe MUST be dealt with and fixed as a matter of high priority.  

There can also be toxins and physical dangers that can harm pets in an environment.

Plants, fungi, chemicals, hazards and even some commonly available human foods can pose an immediate threat of illness & even death to animals (*of course many of these things can also pose a threat to we humans!)

Becoming aware of these items is the first step - removing harm or preventing access to harmful items is the next logical thing to do.

We emphasis, that if you have pets, they should be flea & worm treated regularly if you are caring for and coming into contact with client's pets to prevent cross contamination with parasites. 

Look carefully in the home &/or yard environment for things that could prove harmful to a pet. 

Things like:

-  Building nails, old wire or splinters sticking out of a surface can cause cuts, abrasions, bruises and infections.

- An area that is too high or not secured can mean that a fall can be had, and lacerations, bruising and broken bones and other internal injuries could result!

- An open body of water, such as a pool, pond or lake can cause drowning or if the pet is immersed for a long period because it cannot get out, the animal can suffer exposure &/or hypothermia!

- An unsecured fence (Under, over, through escape) can lead to injury from a vehicle, or a malicious human or another animal in a fight.

NOTE: pets by their nature will often seek an 'escape' route - whether they appear "happy" or appear to be pining for their usual companions.  Dogs dig holes under fences or may test the palings for a loose one, they have been known to be able to work out how to open gates so it is a good idea to have extra caution when securing these. 

Also, be aware that either welcome or unknown visitors to your home could knowingly, or unknowingly let the animals out of your yard! (Keyed or combination locks where only YOU and authorised responsible people can open these is the BEST option!)

BE AWARE! Small mammals can have nimble paws to unhook latches and even a birds beak and claws can work a door open with persistence! 

Cats of course are often extreme ninja's who can jump, wiggle, worm and squirm out of a lot of places - so a quick daily check to prevent escape can you and us a load of anxiety where a pet could go missing!

- An unsecured door, window etc. for an indoor or ‘caged’ pet can result in the same problems as the unsecured fence issue mentioned above!

- There MUST always be adequate fresh, clean drinking water easily accessible for pets to drink at ALL times.  Remember that a lack of water can be life threatening.

Never leave an animal unattended in a car or other vehicle EVER. The temperature in a vehicle - which is basically just a steel box with windows - can become like an oven quickly even on what may appear as the mildest of days. NEVER take the risk - it is just not worth it!

SHELTER: There MUST always be adequate shelter for animals so that they can get away from the:

           -  The direct rays of the sun (Animals can also suffer sunburn!)

           - Heat (Shaded undercover bedded area, with a good water source kept cool in the shade too!)

           - Cold (& rain or snow) a covered, insulated, bedding area, with no cold draughts that could chill the animal further.

           - The wind or draughts. Rapidly moving air can chill an animal and they must be able to avoid the wind by accessing adequate shelter

Of course a well built, well positioned and maintained shelter can achieve ALL the above goals, and SHOULD!

Carers need to maintain a proper environment for animals in their care.  When we look after special housing needs of animals make sure that you check the placement and maintenance of heaters, water provision etc. 

Where there is supplied (client or carer) Animal appropriate housing & climate - check where it is placed and that all items within are switched on and functional as appropriate:

  - Birds & small animals need protection from predators. Plus, excessive heat &/or excessive cold - can kill - make sure animals are NEVER left too close to an un-shaded window where they can get bad exposure.

A bird (or small mammal) left unattended in a cage in the open "for a little fresh air' can become the target of carnivourous birds.  Butcher Birds are fairly common in Australia, and more than one beloved budgie, canary & even parrots have fallen victim to attack and even death in cages considered 'safe' by their owners! (This can happen as easily in an urban area as in a country area - the predatory birds can roam freely after all - it is their nature to find prey!

Small mammals and reptiles can also fall prey to larger bird or reptile predators and even ants in large numbers can be life threatening to animals that are trapped in their path (there is a growing danger of fire ants in some areas of Australia so please be aware!)

In some yards around Australia, Cane Toads are now becoming a potential threat to pets (& Native animals) it is worth checking yards where this could take place.  If you find them, you should notify local authorities - for example your local council animal control officer - for advise on ethical removal/control by those authorities and so that they can track the progress of this threat to pets and wildlife!)

Native snakes can also prove dangerous to pets, if in doubt check (& be careful about your safety too!)

Fungus.  In autumn 2011, in the southern states, several cats and dogs were poisoned in their own yards by mushrooms that grew and proved to be fatal when played with/eaten. 

Thinking ahead, checking regularly and awareness & vigilance is the best defence in all of these cases - remove the danger where it is safe & practical - and call the authorities for assistance if at all in doubt or when you need specialist assistance!

Check tanks / enclosures regularly, to ensure that the equipment is working, switched on and things such as temperature, do not drop to levels that are too low and will then affect their health  and to make sure that you have that area secure from escape and safe from potential predator activity.

Remember the world can be a very dangerous and harsh place if we do not take extreme care!

REMEMBER TO ALWAYS CLEAN & MAINTAIN THE ENVIRONMENT OF ANIMALS IN YOUR CARE!

Remove, manage & prevent access to dangers no matter what that could be! 

Think ahead - The environment you are in can also be potentially dangerous to you too! So you MUST TAKE CARE AND PRECAUTIONS.

A clean, hygienic environment, a hazard free environment, good practical footwear, proper attire, good pet management skills etc. help to keep you safe too!

Your goal is to ALWAYS provide the best possible environment possible - and to manage that environment to minimize danger to you, your family, your pets and the pets entrusted to your care at all times!

Observing and reporting on pets’ state of health:

Whilst caring for pets, it is important for carers to monitor their state of health, their physical needs, whether they are eating their food, appear to have issues with their behavior or health, and to make short daily notes regarding this during the time of the pets care.

We recommend a daily log of Health notes & or a general round up for short stays/care is a good practice to provide for the owners when they take back the charge of their pets.

This can help the owner to determine if there have been any changes to their pets state of health that they should monitor themselves on their return. 

We recommend a short daily written note that tells clients that the pet has been observed eating in a certain manner, are observed to have healthy Bowel Movements (BM) & urine output. 

If in doubt about the state of health of the pet – advise your PSA advisor immediately to discuss and get advice as to next steps.

We ask the clients to provide us with their pet's vets details, and the details of an emergency contact person &/or their emergency contact details where they are,  if ever there are any major concerns and emergencies.

We provide these details as part of your Job Sheets and you should keep these available for your reference when the job is underway.

We provide the Pet First Aid training to help you to assess an animals 'state' - to help the animals if they need help - but always remember WE can help you to determine if intervention &/or vet care is needed if you are in doubt!

Pilling/Medicating Pets

Medication / Pilling of animals

Whilst caring for pets, it is sometimes necessary to administer pills or other medication.

It is of the utmost importance to both administer the correct pills and dosage to the correctly identified pet as per the client’s instructions.

ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK to make sure that you ARE using the right medication, the correct dosage and giving it to the right animal!

The most important aspect of pilling an animal is to be able to secure the animal gently and securely, so that is does not get agitated.

The more calm and confident of your actions you are, whilst being firm yet gentle with the animal, we find that the medication can be given with the least amount of stress to both you and the animal.

The securing of the pet can be done in several ways.

If you wish to observe the various methods again, we recommend that you revisit the 'Training Video List' prior to beginning this section - you will find the relevant links in that email.

(When you are in the midst of your training and you are reviewing your vide coursework - we recommend that you cut & paste the link, & then post into a new browser to help you with this section of the course so that you do not lose where you are up to on this session!)

Some medications (meds) pills may need to take whole and not crushed into food. So it is important to have a strategy that works for pilling animals.

We should always find out from the client, what methods they use to pill their animals as then we have a good chance of being able to use a method that is known to work with that particular pet.

However – not all pets will tolerate the same method that their owners will employ – so it is worth having a few strategies in place!

IMPORTANT!:

No matter what method is used, the carers’ general demeanor and approach with the pill should always be the same. 

When using Cat Restraint methods always be careful of teeth & paws/claws- remain calm and use lots of petting and encouraging words!

You as the carer will always need to approach the animal gently and calmly – using a gentle manner and NEVER rush the pet, you MUST be kind and use a gentle voice, calm the animal with your demeanor and with gentle petting and stroking – NEVER move or act in a manner that will alarm the pet! (do not get frustrated as the pet will pick this up and also become frustrated and tense – remember to breathe normally, don’t hold your breath the animal can interpret this as stress and can become stressed as a result too! Try to take a long, dep relaxing breath – BEFORE you even start the process)

Be prepared with the pill, ready to give them either in a handy pocket – near the animals or in your pill popper or hand -  but do try to NOT make the pill obvious to the animal.  Keep it as just part of the affection, not the reason for the pet getting affection!

Prying the mouth open of animals can be done by using a finger at the front of the mouth – to gentle pull down the lower jaw and pulling up the upper jaw – or can be more of a pincer/gentle ‘pushing in’ at both sides of the mouth at the corners of the jaw to make them release the muscles at that point  - when they release the muscle the jaw will open and you can then lift the head up to drop the pills in vertically – or if you are able to push the pill to the back of the mouth with a pill popper or - if you know and trust the animals and IMPORTANTLY if the animals knows and TRUSTS YOU – you may wish to use your finger to place the pill gently and swiftly at the back of the throat.

ALWAYS remain calm and gentle and caress and soothe the animals BEFORE you start – and AFTER you have completed the pilling where possible!

Pilling Cats:

Pilling whilst scruffing:

TIP: Scruffing, - how their mum caries them around can help them to relax!

Scruffing a cat can allow the cat to go into a more relaxed state of mind when done correctly!

Come to the cat, and give them gentle pets, as you rub gentle around the head and neck area, gently scruff the cat by grabbing the loss skin found above the shoulder and the back of the neck (position you hand to be in line with the area between the ears) gentle lift back the head, allowing the cat to keep all feet on the surface it is on, lift the head up and back so that the cats nose is pointing up in the air. 

If you are doing this correctly, you will see that the mouth will open slightly and the cat will still be somewhat relaxed.

At this point you would have the pill in your free hand and you should be able to gently pry open the mouth.

The cats head and mouth will at this point be virtually straight up towards the ceiling and the back of the throat will be directly under the nose – which means it is the point where gravity will place the pill if you drop it directly into the mouth.

(You can use your little fingers tip to help you to open the mouth by gently pressing the lower jaw down by placing it on the lower teeth)

Drop the pill to the very back of the throat (Where the tongue generally makes a little ‘v’ shape is your target area) once the pill is dropped in – whilst still holding the head up gentle by the scruff, gently press the mouth closed (NEVER COVER THE NOSTRILS!)  and very gently stroke the throat from under the mouth, to past the larynx to encourage swallowing of the pill.

When you have done this (it should only take a few seconds!) you can then gentle release the neck back into the usual position and continue to give affection to the cat – as if nothing had happened – when you are proficient at this – you will find that many cats just see it as part of the affection you are giving – BIG TIP – The more calm and relaxed you remain – the easier it will be to achieve a quick pilling!

The over the Head/Mouth method.  Where a cat cannot be scruffed, (due to injury on or around the scruff – which includes general sensitivity in this area for some animals -  a gentle cupping of the back of the head, (where your hand softly covers the ears and eye area of the cats head – you can then tilt the cats head back (similar to scruffing but with more ‘head control” – you tilt the head back nose pointed at the ceiling and pry open the mouth – administering the pill as per previous instructions.

The Pill popper/Pill Gun method (Also the Syringe of Liquid/Paste method)

You use all of the same techniques as about UNTIL it comes time to give the pill.  The pill Popper/Pill Gun looks a lot like a modified syringe with a spilt rubber end that holds the pill until the “plunger’ end is pushed to release the pill.

Generally you apply this popper method from the side of the mouth, over the tongue into the area at the back of the throat to where the tongue makes a small ‘v’.

The syringe method of liquid / Paste – you should always check that the doage you are givig is correct and the plunger cannot go past the range of medication required so that you do not give too much. The paste and / or liquid is applied to the bac of the throat and DO NOT RUSH the intake of the medication as the animal needs to be able to swallow and not get a shock and breath in the medicine to its airway which could cause a tragic choking!

Again, the affection given before and during and after the pill/medication giving, is to be gentle, calm and relaxed as possible to make sure that the animal does not get stressed during the pilling.

It is worth watching the animals for a few moments to make sure that the pill has not being spat out – this can be done whilst you are giving the pet soothing affection after giving the medication!

(NB of all the videos provided previously – the  The How to pill a cat without restraint is my preferred method!)

PLEASE NOTE: Pilling most carnivores (including ferrets) can be handled to much the same extent as the cat handling techniques.

REMEMBER - Be calm, gentle and CAREFUL!

Pilling/ Medicating a dog:

Step 1: Make dog sit

Make your dog sit, use a calm voice and be relaxed as possible – the dog will pick up your vibe, so the more relaxed, and less excitable or stressed you are the better the animals will respond to your handling and your medication of them.

Tip: Never call a dog to you in order to give him/her medicine. You don't want him/her to associate being called with being dosed! Always seek him/her out yourself.

Step 2: Pry open mouth (gently!)

Use one hand to pry your dog's mouth open. With your other hand, pop the pill way back into his/her mouth.

Make sure the pill goes behind the back of her tongue.

(Tip: A second person to help may come in handy if your dog is especially large or wriggly)

Step 3: Hold mouth closed

With one hand, hold the dog's mouth closed, snout pointing up, while gently rubbing her throat with your other hand.

Step 4: Wait for swallow

Once the dog swallows and licks her lips, you can be sure that the pill is safely down.

Tip: Stay nearby until you know the pill's been swallowed. Plenty of dogs are adept at concealing their meds and spitting them out later.

Other methods:

Crush pill

If your dog doesn't fall for the pill-in-the-food trick, crush the pill, mix it with a little sugar water, and use a baby syringe to squirt the liquid into the dog's mouth.

Try pill popper/ Pill gun

Still not working? Try a pill popper/pill gun (available from your vet or local pet store) to propel the pill down the dog's throat.

Nothing working?  Check with clients vet – or PSA

If you're having difficulty, check with your vet to see if it's safe to give your dog a pill concealed in food and, if so, try hiding the medicine in something soft like cheese, cream cheese, or peanut butter. Let the dog lick your fingers after you feed her the pill—that will ensure she swallows.

Tip: Be sure to tell your vet what food you might try—some foods interact badly with certain medications.

When you have completed the medication – & the pill/medication is all gone - we suggest you praise your dog, pat him/her, and give her a nice treat to take away the taste!

Questions for this section follow here:

Assess whether the following scenarios and select either ‘True’ or ‘False” for the following (safety and OHS question/statements):

Emergencies take many forms.  There are standard procedures to use based on the emergency with which you are presented. It is always best practice to be prepared for a disaster - for both you, your family & your pets! 

We provide some basic preparedness information as it relates to pets!

Disaster Preparedness

Disaster planning/preparedness for us and our pets can save great distress and even death.

Disasters can take the form of severe weather such as cyclones, hurricanes, earthquakes, floods, fires, hazardous materials spills etc.

These disasters can create great stress and anxiety.  Being prepared can help you deal with the uncertainty associated with disasters. Take the time now to develop your Disaster Plan. This can save you time later, so that you can remain calm and then be better able to take care of yourself, your family and your pets. When preparing disaster kits for your family, make sure that you prepare one for each of your pets too.

In addition to planning for disasters, it is wise to be prepared in your daily life as well.

Always make sure that your pet wears an appropriate ID tag and has your contact information on any carriers, leads etc relating to your pets.

Pets should have be microchipped and registered with your local council (Lifetime registration is inexpensive and can re-unite you with your pets quickly as authorites can check the national register and get your latest cotnact details to contact you - Please ALWAYS keep your details up to date as out of date phone numbers and addresses can result in your not being contactable!)

Identify a safe area in your home where you. Your family and your pet can all stay during a disaster if you do not evacuate.

Identify a safe location where your pet can stay if you are forced to leave him/her behind.

Keep at least one week’s supply of food and water on hand at all times for your pet. Store the dry food in air-tight waterproof containers. Ensure to rotate the food every 3 months to assure freshness.

If your pet is on medication, keep a backup supply on hand.

Keep a spare harness and leash in your evacuation kit

Have a secure carrier available for each of yours. Train them to be comfortable with using the carrier. (At PSA we recommend that you keep carrier available for pets to use as comfy, trusted area to sleep at all times (If you cover this item with a blanet , towel etc it not only looks better, but best of all, an animal in a covered carrier often feels more cosy and safe when travelling too!  The pets being familiar with their carrier makes travelling anywhere in this carrier much les stresful for your pet, whether a trip to the vet or another location. The best outcome is that pets will be less stressed being placed in, or kept in the carrier.

Start a buddy system in your neighborhood. Agree to check on each other’s pets during a disaster in case either of you is not home during a disaster.

Exchange information on veterinarians and have a permission slip put in your file at the vet, authorizing your friend & or Pet Carer providors (i.e. PSA)  to get necessary emergency assistance or treatment for your pet should you not be available.

Know the location and numbers of local animal shelters. You may need to visit them after a disaster to look for a missing pet. - Since pets are not permitted in most ‘human shelters during a disaster – look for shelters ahead of time where your pet may stay.

Research hotels and motels outside of your immediate area to check policies on accepting pets.  Ask about any restriction on number, size and species. Ask if a ‘no pet ‘rule could be waived in the case of an emergency. Make a list of pet friendly places and keep it handy

Check with friends and relative outside your immediate area, ask of they would be able to shelter you and your animals or just your animals if necessary.

Keep spare copies of your Emergency Telephone Contact List and your Pet Health Record in your home, your car, your office and you neighborhood buddy. Be sure to update them regularly to include new information

ID your Pet

Before they go out - All pets should carry some form of ID – in Australia the companion animal act requires that pets be micro chipped (a tiny chip the size of a rice grain which is injected under the dogs skin between the shoulder blades).  Then the owner receives paperwork, or can get paperwork from their council and needs to register on the Lifetime Registration of Companion Animal registration. Once registered with your local council, and so long as your contact detsails are updated (phone numbers and address details need to be updated whenever you have changes - otherwise if your pet goes missing, you may not be able to be contacted!) - it is up to individuals to let their councils know - it is just paperwork, generally with no additonal fees. 

Remember - These details should be updated with any new address and contact details relevant to reunite the pet with its owner as the registration is a national database - but your details cannot be kept up to date unless YOU do this!

Shelters and vets have scanners that read the number of the owner and can call the national registry to get the contact details to start the process of contacting the owner and reunite them with their lost pet.  If details are not kept up to date - the animals that are not reunited with their owners may go up for adoption, and in some cases, if they cannot be adopted the life of the animal can be terminated by some authorities - it take little effort to keep the details and therfore your pets safe from this fate! (Note from Kerry - Cert IV Ttrainer & Assessor for PSA - I do harp on this fact as having been in rescue for many years, we want people to understand that their pets can be at risk otherwise)

Identification tags – Dogs & cats wearing ID tags are immediately recognized as owned by someone, rather than thought of as strays. 

Dogs should wear a flat, buckle collar at all times with ID tag, its name and the owner’s current phone number. Remember that there should be adequate space for teh dogs collar to move freely, but not anough for the collar to slip off.

Cats collars should be able to slip off if the cat gets the collar stuck on something when jumping or squeezing through tight spaces, collars that are elasticised, or have an eleastic section allow the collar to slip of easier in an emergency. Remember that cats could get choked if anything other than a cat collar is used so never substitute a dogs collar for a cat!

First Aid Kit

A first aid kit is a wise thing to prepare in case of an accident or emergency.Kits or their contents are readily available at pet supply stores or you may wish to create your own kit of even add to a purchased kit.  Store the items in a container that is readily available.  - Be sure to tell your family, friends and pet-sitter where to find your first aid kit. (We suggest you keep it near you Human ready – First Aid Kit. A pet first aid kit includes all the special items your pets may need in the event of an accident. Contains bandages, wound care items, antiseptic, peroxide for vomiting, pet first aid guide.

Recommended contents of a Pet First Aid Kit are as follows:

· (1) Digital Thermometer
· (1) Sterile lubrication .71oz.
· (6) 2"x2" Gauze bandages
· (6) 3"x3" Gauze bandages
· (1) 2"x4.1 yd. Conforming gauze roll bandage
· (1) 3"x4.1 yd. Conforming gauze roll bandage
· (1) Burn relief gel pack
· (6) Antiseptic cleansing wipes
· (1) 4 oz. Hydrogen peroxide
· (1) 1"x5 yd. First Aid tape
· (3) Antibiotic ointment packs
· (1) Scissors
· (1) 10cc Syringe
· (1) Tweezers
· (1) 6' Leashes / Harness / Collar Per pet
· (2) Large exam quality vinyl gloves, 1 pair
· (1) 5"x9" Trauma pad
· (1) 2"x5 yd. Cohesive bandage wrap
· (3) Insect sting relief pads
· (1) 4 oz. Eye wash
· (2) 3" Cotton tipped applicators
· (1) Pet first aid guide
Any Prescription Drugs as required by pets (as prescribed by your treating veterinarian)

i.e. Medications - Whether Oral, Topical or Injectable Medication

(Case to enclose all of the above – Which could be kept inside their Pet Carrier for convenience)

When should we evacuate?

To evacuate or not? The decision to evacuate is not an easy one to make and you should listen for advice from the local active authorities.  If the community is under a mandatory evacuation order you should plan to respond promptly, do not wait until the last possible moment.  The best course of action is to take your pet with you if at all possible. Waiting until you are forced to evacuate may mean you are forced to leave your pet. If the worst occurs and you are forced to leave your pet behind, be sure to post a note indicating the location of your pet(s) inside your home. Securely attach a copy of your emergency Contact Information in a zipped plastic bag. Leave your pet in an interior room, preferable one without windows (that could shatter or be broken by whether and the animals could be hurt) – Provide plenty of food and water (in bowls that cannot be tipped over and in a regulated dispenser!) Place a blanket or pet bet near your pet for comfort.  Make sure your pet is wearing an appropriate ID tag.

When you have developed a disaster plan you will be better prepared to make the necessary decisions. Knowing your options ahead of time may save you precious moments during a disaster.

If evacuation is not necessary then move yourself, your family and your pets to the safest area in your home. 

Keep your emergency supplies and evacuation kit close by you. Make sure that your pet continues to wear appropriate ID.  Keep your pet on a leash or in a carrier in case you must leave quickly. Provide comfort and a constant supply of water. Feed your pet regularly throughout the disaster.

Evacuation Kit

Create an evacuation kit and keeping it readily available should be a part of your disaster planning efforts. Regardless of whether you are away from home for a few hours or much longer you will need access to essential items.  Use a sturdy waterproof container that can easily be carried, such as a plastic tub or trash can with a lid, a waterproof dry bag, or a waterproof backpack to store all your evacuation supplies. Keep the kit in an accessible place.

Your Pet evacuation Kit should include:

• ·        Medical records and medication
• ·        Emergency contact information
• ·        Ownership records
• ·        First Aid kit (See our recommended Pet First Kit)
• ·        Additional Leashes  and or harnesses
• ·        Current photos of your pet
• ·        Food and water (1-2 weeks supply)
• ·        Food and water dishes
• ·        Can opener, if needed
• ·        Towels
• ·        Pet blanket
• ·        Toys and chew toys
• ·       Water (1 litre dependant upon the size and number of animals you will need to care for over a 2 day period

ADDITIONAL WEB RELATED RESOURCE WILL BE MADE AVAILABE ON HTE "THANK YOU" PAGE ON COMPLETION OF THIS COURSE!

EMERGENCY PLAN – For your pets’ safety and survival! (Start Planning Now)

If you're ordered to evacuate, "do everything you can to take your pets with you," warns Howard White, media relations director for HSUS. "Domestic animals need human care to survive." The Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) advises you to plan ahead and follow the HSUS disaster plan for your pets. It's similar to the one you have for the rest of your family.

·  Keep a list of all your pets their names, breed, sex, colour, age and any special characteristics. Also list their favourite hiding places.

·  Be sure your pet always wears a collar that fits properly and has current I.D. You might also consider microchipping. Proof of ownership is very important, so also copy adoption or purchase papers, including microchip information.

·  Keep your pets' medical records, including inoculations, up to date. Emergency kennels or animal shelters may require them.

·  Have a lightweight, strong carrier or crate for each pet. Use a crate approved for airline travel, not cardboard. Cats may pose special problems, since they often resist being confined. Regularly play games with them, using toys and food in and around the kennel, so your cats grow comfortable with it.

·  If you go to a public shelter, your pet needs other accommodations. Research your options now. Call local emergency management officials to see if they've planned for pet shelters. Survey boarding kennels or veterinary clinics along evacuation routes, to ask them about their emergency policies. Call motels to see if they allow people with pets in emergencies. If nothing's available, arrange for relatives or friends in a safe area to hold your pets while your home is off limits.

·  Many families designate a person in another town as the contact to call if family members are separated during a disaster.

·  Find a willing neighbour to care for your pets in case you are not at home when a disaster occurs. Make sure the neighbour has a key to your home, is familiar with your pets and knows where your evacuation and first-aid supplies are kept.

·  Provide a signed letter releasing your neighbour from responsibility and a signed veterinary medical treatment authorization form.

·  Keep a permanent, waterproof "Pets Live Here" sign near your doorbell, alerting emergency workers to the kind and number of pets inside.

·  Carry several wallet photos of each pet.

·  Keep a list of important emergency telephone numbers. Include the phone number of your planned evacuation site, a local contact person, an out of state contact person, your veterinarian, an alternate veterinarian at least 30 kilometres away, a local boarding facility and an alternate boarding facility at least 30 kilometres away. Also include lists of hotels nearby that accept pets.

Additional handy phone numbers include animal control, police, fire, public health department, local humane organization, animal shelter and SES.

A New Attitude
Just a few years back, emergency agencies advised evacuating people to leave their pets locked safely in a windowless room on a high floor, preferably in a bathroom with a counter and enough food and water for a week, and separate rooms for each species. We now know that this should be done only as a last resort.

Prepare a Pet Emergency 'Kit to Go'

Keep your evacuation kit and first-aid kit together. You may be away for a day or a week, so be prepared with the following supplies, kept in a duffle bag or covered container, preferably on wheels:

· Medical records and medications in a waterproof container.

· A first-aid kit.

· Current printed and digital photos of your pets, in case a rescuer needs to post it on the Internet.

· One week’s worth of food, drinking water and litter. Don't forget a can opener, litter box and bowls.

·  Information on your pet's habits, medications, feeding times and your veterinarian's name and number.

·  A waterproof marking pen to add last-minute directions to tags or labels.

·  Your pet's favourite toys, if you have room.

When It's Time to Leave
At the first sign of a threatening storm or fire, keep your pets in your home. Speak to them in a calm voice. They often sense danger in the air well in advance, and could get frightened and run away or hide. If there's any doubt, leave ahead of evacuation time, to be sure you can take your pets with you. Place them in carrier to take with you where possible to prevent them hiding and possibly being left behind

Trying to find your pet and be re-united?  The Internet to the Rescue?
The Internet provides an opportunity for reuniting pets and their humans as never before.  

If your pets are microchipped and registered to your current home address and contact details, you will have a potentially easier time being re-united with your pet.  If they are chipped and not registered, get the chip number (Possible to locate on your vet records and/or adoption papers) then get in contact with your local council and register them immediately - then they can be reunited with you more easily as this is a national register!  The process of microchipping allocates a name to a chip, but each person/owner then needs to register their dog with their local council and then it goes on the national register)

There are many websites where you can post details or check for 'lost dogs & cats' - unfortunately they are not all linked and it takes a fair bit of 'trolling' to find a match. Here are some:
Try your local RSPCA  - the RSPCA has many shelters - you need to contact them individually.

http://www.rspcansw.org.au/rscpa_branches_and_shelters

If an animal is deemed 'adoptable' then it may end up in this section of the web search: http://www.adoptapet.com.au/

Make flyers for your area you think that they have wandered into... offer a reward for their safe return... someone may be keeping them waiting for this offer as you become more desperate - make it a 'no questions asked return' offer -

There are other welfare 'pet search' sites as well - they do not appear to be linked at all, again - just keep net surfing  -some possible sites: -       http://www.petrescue.com.au/

Pet & Client ID Management

Dog Walking – Dog Health & ID related mattes

It is important to note that dogs, whilst robust and always up for exercise – it is important for us to act in their best interest taking into account the current state of the weather and the environment – For example it is not good to walk them when the temperature is too high &/or in the full sun of the mid part of the day.

At PSA we do not want you to walk dogs during the middle and hottest part of the day in the summer & hotter months as this can be a hazard for you – and the DOGS in your care!

So - NO exertion or exercise that can raise their temperature too high is the best advice! An animal with heat stroke can sicken and can die quickly!

Always provide animals with lots of shaded areas and shelter from the weather. There MUST also be plenty of water, also left in shaded areas so that the pet can easily and regularly drink cool water in hot weather at all times! 

Remember it is always best to allow and support an animal with gentle/light activities and shaded shelter that will allow them to keep their temperature as close to normal at all times.

Dogs are to be kept ON LEASH at all times when being walked by a PSA carer.

When the dog is being taken anywhere outside of the secure yard/environment of a carer, whether on a walk - or to and from a care to other secure areas - it is determined that this is our PSA policy that all dogs MUST be ON LEASH - as even the owner and families of dogs can have trouble getting their own dogs to return to them when they are excited, fearful or simply do not wish to come back to them - it can be impossible to expect a PSA or other non 'owner/family' member to be able to control the animal any better!

Also, we limit the number of dogs that a single carer is to walk by themselves to:

ONE (1) large/giant breed at any one time,

Or

TWO (2) medium Size dogs at any one time

Or

Three (3) Small dogs at any one time

Or

Four (4) Miniature/Toy dogs at any one time

This is so that the carer can maintain the safe control of the dogs under their care.  A dog, or several dogs can overpower a carer if the carer is overwhelmed when walking a dog.  Also, if other dogs or people, equipment sounds etc approach or startle the dog(s) it is ALWAYS best to be able to manage a situation rather than have the possibility of the situation going out of your control.

Of course you will know your own limitations and you may choose NEVER to walk a large/giant breed, or only one medium dog and two or less small & toy miniature dogs.  We expect that you manage and know what you can and cannot achieve with comfort! – please self monitor and do not exceed your limits.  An escaping animal can get hurt when it is out of your control!

PSA - Lost, Escaped - Pet Procedures

Pets like all creatures can find ways of escaping or getting themselves lost.

We never expect this to occur - but it is important to BE PREPARED!

Clients are asked to provide the following when engaging PSA to care for their pets:

1)    Description of pet (inc breed)

2)    A recent photo of their pet

3)    Collar for their pet to wear with ID tag

4)    The way to encourage the pet to come back

5)    Copies of council registration, vaccination certificates,

NOTE: You will be supplied PSA Key/Dog Tags/Fobs for the purpose of attaching to  client keys so that you can identify them - and for the pets collar if they are staying with you! 

When a Pet arrives for your care - PSA Carers are to attach a PSA supplied or approved ID tag to the pets in their care – and to remove from dog when returned to their owners and re-use this tag for each pet visitor to their homes. This tag should have the following statement

“If this pet is found please call: 0412-412-881’

The ID Tag should ALSO have writen info that YOU write and place INSIDE THE TAG - this is the Clients Unique PSA ID number. 

You find this as part of the job code - it appears like this example:

Clients initials + Number between 01 to 99 - then the clients Postcode.

i.e. Mary Poppins of Sydney City would appear as "MP01-2000"

You just use the code from your job!

The clients dogs need to be identified - of course - they must continue to wear their own collars and ID tags of course - but we also need to ADD our PSA tags as well. 

The PSA Clients keys must NEVER have the full address or customer details on the EVER! Only the Unique client code as this ensures that their home & pets are safe from anyone who may find the keys for any reason

(When the pet returns to it's owner - or if/when returning keys to the client - please retain and re-use the key Fobs - just change the client ID details per job!)

If a pet goes missing PSA recommends that the following steps are taken immediately a pet is discovered as missing.

Important Note:

1.Call PSA immediately

Call us on 0405-498-528 to let us know as this is the phone number anyone finding the pet is encouraged to call first – this MAY save you a lot of stress and time as we may already have the pet located!

2. Search the neighbourhood!

Start looking around the neighbourhood where the pet was last seen, where safe and possible, a door knock may be a good start. If you can look around the area  where the pet went missing – provide people with a description of the lost pet, provide the PSA contact phone number and check accessible parks, school grounds, and garage or shed, beaches, rivers, storm water canals, etc.  If the dog is social or is an intact undesexed male then they may be attracted to bitches recently on heat or in heat – or to dogs that are playing.

3. Call & advise your local police that a dog has been lost.

(Please ask for email or fax number and provide to PSA Head Office so that we may email or fax the dogs profile & Photo to the police )

4. Helping the authorities and others to help you & us in our search.

Provide a full description of the pet/dog, location it went missing, the date & approx time when it went missing – provide our PSA name and contact telephone number.  When providing this verbally – please have the message taker repeat the information back to you.

Ask questions about any reported pet/dogs been reported as found.  Regardless of the actual description matching, get the contact numbers of the persons who have found this animal.

For use with: Police, Rangers (Local Councils/Shires), Veterinary Clinics, Animal Shelters.
For lost dogs: always check further by personal visits to Council Pounds and animal welfare shelters, taking such documentation as council registration, vaccination certificates, photographs etc. (Info is supplied on your Job Sheet to cover such occurances where the client has supplied these!)

5. Calling your local Municipal Council
Check in the area where pet was lost and also surrounding municipalities.
Contact:
* Ranger/s - (see general method above)
* Pound/s - visit
* Depot/s - dog may have been killed on the road and brought in by council vehicle
* Road Patrol Depots

6. VETERINARY CLINICS
Consult Veterinary Surgeons Locality Guides in the Yellow Pages.
Extend inquiries to at least 20 km if necessary.

An animal could be picked up by car and taken out of the area in any direction for some distance.

7. ANIMAL SHELTERS
Phone all the Animal Shelters in your area/city.

Of Course - prevention of an escape is by far prefereable to having to find an escapee - so always take appropriate measures to PREVENT Escape!

If an animal is lost CALL US - we will send you a

"PSA - Lost, Escaped - Pet Procedures"

email to help you track down the animal through shelters etc in your district!

But the ONE important note to make here is YOU MUST TAKE IMMEDIATE

ACTION!

It is time for the …..

Questions for Assessment of this section:

M3 S2 Q3a) As a PSA carer if there are any emergency situations, or where a pet is missing I will need to do the following:  

Pet/Animal Behaviour Basics

Why do PSA conduct a training course in Pet Behaviour BASICS? - Professional animal care services need to ensure that animal carers have an opportunity improve their ability to assess a pet’s ‘state’ to assist and best manage and care for that animal.  PSA provides this Basic course to provide appropriate training that will allow carers to recognise the state of an animal in their care – or coming into/joining their environment!

PSA encourages all Carers to develop skills to be able to assess the physical condition of the animal and its mental/emotional state and be able to engage appropriate behavioural management as required. (Where carers can take appropriate action to assist, manage and calm & relax the animal/pet as much as possible.

Remember that with all animals – if they feel threatened or ‘cornered’ then there is a potential that they will try to protect themselves and may bite, scratch etc – so you need to treat ALL animals with respect and with caution!

PSA is committed to providing carers with the confidence and the knowledge to deal with a Pet behaviour management situation.

General Comments:

Whilst this is a Pet Behaviour Basics component of PSA training – there are additional courses available through PSA and many training bodies.

Please let PSA know if you have interests in continued training so that we can accommodate potential courses or advise you where you can seek good training as we are committed to you get the best grounding as an animal care professional whist you are part of our network!

J     (Cheers from your Cert IV TAA course developer - Kerry Bailey)

Pets – recognising body language

Animals communicate through various means.  Animal trainers, behaviourists and owners, in fact anyone who knows pets/animals can tell you that the general state of mind and potential behaviour of animals by recognising their innate body language.

This animal basics course will cover “Predator pets/animals” (Mammals) such as cats, Dogs & Ferrets,  & “Prey Pets/animals” (Mammals) such as Rabbits, Rats, Mice, Guinea Pigs .

In general terms it can be seen that predators and prey animals share many common traits, in that they can become great family members, loving pets and can even co-exist amongst each other in one household, when the introductions, environment and ‘state of all animals is balanced, calm and harmonious.

It should also be noted quite strongly – that animals from a predator /prey mix, that live with each other would need to be introduced to their companions under the care and management of their owners ONLY.

PSA Carers should never introduce or mix, new Prey and Predator animals from a client’s environment into their own environment where they can interact and where harm may come to any animal. 

All unfamiliar animals should be kept separate and protected from actual contact from each other.  It is recommended that and in some cases – predatory animals should not be in close proximity to prey animals as extreme fear can lead to death in some extreme cases!

In general terms: Predatory animals have forward facing eyes, with binocular view which helps them to hunt.  They are Carnivores (cats & Ferrets are obligate carnivores) or Omnivores  (Dogs eat meat and vegetable matter), you can often also tell that an animal is a ‘predator’ from its teeth, beaks, claws, paws, feet, talons etc.

Generally – predators have varying levels of Prey drive is the instinctive behaviour of a carnivore to pursue and capture prey. All animals have their own personality and inherent behaviours.

As a general rule – do not stare at a predator.  Staring directly at a predator is often seen as a challenge or threat. .

You should NEVER challenge any animal by glaring at them, or staring at them, as this can make the animal want to challenge you, or try to escape your gaze.  As an animal carer this is NOT how we would want you to interact with the animals.  It should always be your intent to make them as comfortable and trusting in your presence as possible!

The following is your formal and official agreement to the PSA - Policies and Procedures in order to become a PSA Carer Contractor

Dogs – Guide: 

Your initial introduction to any dog is extremely important! - When you first meet a new dog you should not approach it ‘head on’, it is important to be confident, relaxed, balanced, have good posture so that you are communicating that you  are calm, confident & in charge.

When entering the environment of a dog:

It is best to enter an environment, where you do not address the dog directly or indirectly:

            Do Not - talk to the dog

            Do Not  - give the dog direct eye contact (however also do not let your eyes dart around or ‘avoid’ eye contact!)

            Do Not - try to touch or pet the dog

            DO keep your voice & body gestures etc calm & relaxed & make no sudden movement that could cause a ‘startle’

            DO - walk forward calmly and confidently – with a measured and relaxed  pace. (Your posture should be strong, but never threatening or overly dominant or imposing to the either humans or pets in the environment)

Being viewed as 'strong and in control' to an animal is where you neither pose any form of threat - where your stance and actions appear well balanced and in control of yourself and your actions. i.e. you are NOT unpredictable and the dog can be more able to accept and trust you and your presence and be polite & respectful of you.

'Balanced' is where you do NOT do ANYTHING in an excited manner - you are CALM in your demeanor in all that you do.

On introduction of yourself to humans and to animals your energy should be CALM and ASSERTIVE (this does NOT mean dominant by any means!)

Calm & Assertive is where you are breathing in a relaxed manner, shoulders back, not bending over towards a dog, keeping your eyes failry level with the humans that you are sepaking with and will NIL excitement in your manner. Even when  speaking yourvoice and its tone should be relaxed and confident.

This makes the dog respect you & your   personal space as you claim your space!!

Once the dog is curious and greets you calmly and politely, (Dog comes forward gently, tail relaxed, head down and sniffing, etc as per ‘postures indicated in diagrams found later in this guide) then you can acknowledge the dog.

Acknowledging the dog should never turn into an excited session, you treat the dog like a friend who has just re-entered the room, rather than like a child who needs to be stirred up and go into a 'play' mode....

When you acknowledge the dog a gentle hello and ear or back scratch is more respectful of yourself and the dog.

If you were to drop to your knees and roll about on the floor with the dog, you would be telling the dog, "I am more of a puppy needing play!" - than "I am a leader you can follow" - what you want is for the dog to respect you as a leader that he/she can follow!  THAT is what you should be aiming for!


It is not about popularity - it is about establishing respect!

Your confident behaviour will establish you as a ‘leader’ from the beginning. 

Remember that by greeting a dog ‘excitedly’ you can cause a dog to think that you are inexperienced, and not calm and confident, and that he/she need to manage you!

When a dog enters YOUR environment, you should follow these simple rules: (VERY important to carers who are bringing a dog into their environment for the first time!

Use the same rules of meeting - set out above - when you meeet a dog in a neutral or your own territory.

When you want to have the respect of an dog - what you do when you meet - and what you do during your time with the dog COUNTS!

When a dog(S) & its owner are coming for either a Dog Interview - or for the dog to be dropped off to stay with you  - that the owner arrives early to take their dog for a walk OUTSIDE your home to help reduce their energy for at least 5 minutes (The longer the better for this walk though - the more energy is expended before they come inside your environment - the better it is for them - and for you and your family and their stay!  (IF the owner has left it late - then you will find that it will be best if YOU take the time to do this walk - the transistion into your environment will be significantly better from the start!

To pick up on the Owner taking their dog for a walk - prior to your introduction into your environment: 

You come and greet them all OUTSIDE…. Neutral territory - Join them on their walk - you can then take over the lead and take the owners dog for a quick walk with the owner. (the dog then sees you being in charge of the walk!)

If you have dogs, it is best to have them meet the dog who is staying with you, outside in that neutral territory – and even better to have them all go on a walk together BEFORE entering your home.  You should be in charge of the walk – to show all of the dogs that you are in control of this environment and of course then – ANY environment.

A dog entering your environment: (even YOUR dogs) When you enter the house with the dogs at any time – remember that

1) The ‘first one’ through the door establishes in the dogs mind “who is in charge!” – if it is not you – then it will be them – or worse the dogs may vie for leader role – and this can cause problems for you and your family!

2) Make all dogs wait and be polite (and calm) – they should let the human pack through ‘doors’ first at all times

3) Dogs should be calm and relaxed before you start any walk.  Do NOT reve them up and let them get excited - what many people think is a happy dog, is actually and excited dog, Excitement does NOT equal happy - a happy dog is a calm and balanced dog!     If they are not calm and relaxed before you walk through a door of any kind to commence a walk – you will probably not have a calm and relaxed walk!  If you start out calm and relaxed – you and your dog(s) will enjoy a more calm and relaxed walk!

Remember - When you leave or go through any “Door’ or “Gate’ (in fact any thresh-hold) you & your human family should go through or over these ‘barriers’ first! - It is best that the dogs leave after you, best if they leave slightly or fully behind you, and remain with the walker at heel and in a relaxed state on any walk.

You should also have them do this when they come into any space. Claim your right as the pack leaders! Again, this makes the dog respect you & your rules!

NOTE: to those carers who are fostering dogs from a rescue situation - it is extremely important to excercise the dog VERY well with a long walk - PRIOR introducing them into your home for the first time.  Also, set the ground rules and that you and your family are the balanced ones - do NOT feel "sorry for them" - it is NEVER good to treat a dog as if it has been a victim - they should see themselves as OK

If you find any dog with you is acting out, from pent up energy, frustration at change of it's routine, vocalises a lot or starts to chew or act obsessively - it is generally due to not enough excercies - so if this is occuring - or if you need to re-establish the heirachy,  your position as the leader, a good mangaged long walk that excercises the dog can absolutely help!. (walking your dogs together with this dog also helps them to bond better!)

Be respected, at all times!

Being respected means that you can enjoy being with the dogs so much more - they will be more respectful - they will listen to you - they will do what you want them to do, generlaly when yuo want them to do it - because of respect!

It is no different when it is time to play - you can also enjoy this time immensely when in play mode - in fact - playing with respectful dogs is an utter joy as you do not have to 'control' the dog through voice and other major physical effort as much - becasue they will be listening and wanting to interact with you as the clear leader!

Being respected and managing this through being the one who determines that play can begin - and also be the one who decides when the play will end. Then you are able to continue more easliy as the established leader in the dogs mind!

I would like to point out that a dog that RULES the house - or that is "the Boss" - is generally not a happy dog overall.  It is very stressful for a dog to try to maintain it's leadership over a family, as the humans will of course NOT alawys listen to the dog.  A dog that feels that it neds to be the boss, becasue it feels that the humans are unbalanced or weak, is generally a very anxious or nervous animal that will be 'on guard' trying to manage it's unmanagemable pack of humans - when a dog like this gets good leadership they will be happier and more relaxed.  It is tough to be the boss when you are a dog, it is good to be the leader of your dog when you are a human because you are helping your dog to lead a more balanced, less stressful, happier life!

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How To Read Your Dog's Body LanguageBody Language Basics  - By Stanley Coren | Illustrations by Emma Trithart ‘

What is your dog trying to tell you? Dogs have a language that allows them to communicate their emotional state and their intentions to others around them. Although dogs do use sounds and signals, much of the information that they send is through their body language, specifically their facial expressions and body postures.

Understanding what your dog is saying can give you a lot of useful information, such as when your dog is spooked and nervous about what is going on, or when your dog is edgy and might be ready to snap at someone. You do have to look at the dog's face and his whole body.  - Following is a sort of visual version of a Berlitz phrase book to allow you to interpret the eight most important messages your dog is sending to you.

 __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

1. Relaxed Approachable (Figure 1 – Dog – Relaxed & Approachable)

The above is dog is relaxed and Approachable. 

He/she is reasonably content.

Looking at the Figure 1, you will see that the general stance of the dog is loose & relaxed, the dog stands distributing its weight evenly.

The tail is down and relaxed, The ears are up (but NOT straining forward)

The head is held high, not back on the shoulder or straining forward.

The mouth is open, the tongue slightly exposed and the breathing is relaxed.

Such a dog is unconcerned and unthreatened by any activities going on in his immediate environment and is usually approachable.

________________________________________________________________________________________________

2. Alert- Checking Things Out  (Figure 2.)

The above dog is ‘Alert & Checking things out”

If the dog has detected something of interest, or something unknown, these signals communicate that he is now alert and paying attention while he is assessing the situation to determine if there is any threat or if any action should be taken.

He/she has detected something of interest to it.

Looking at the Figure 2, you will see that the general stance of the dog is now slighty leaning forward and the dog is more on it’s toes.

The eyes are wide – to take in visual content.

The tail is held more still – more horizontal with the body – it may move slightly from side to side.

The head is held high, ears forward (may be moving to try & capture every sound).

The mouth is more closed – and the dog will tend to still any panting so that it can hear better.

Dogs often go into this state as they enter into a new situation – they are assessing the situation and their relation to situations constantly

__________________________________________________________________________________________________

3. Dominant Aggressive

The above dog is : “Dominant Aggressive” - This is a very dominant and confident animal. Here he is not only expressing his social dominance, but is also threatening that he will act aggressively if he is challenged.

 This is a very dominant and confident animal.

Note that the stance and position of the dog has changed drastically

Looking at Figure 3, you will see that the general stance of the dog has it’s body now leaning forward and the dog is stiffening it’s legs – it is showing building tension.

The eyes may still be wide – but you will see that the forehead is frowning & showing vertical wrinkles, the lips curl, showing teeth and often the gums will also become visible… the mouth now opens and the corners of the mouth will come forward. to take in visual content.

The tail is held more stiff and it will be raised and may bristle and quiver or vibrate – another sign of building tension.

The hackles – the hair along the shoulder back & base of tail - will be raised & bristling – to make the dog appear larger

The head is held high & forward and the ears will tend to move more forward

A dog in this state is ready for action.

IMPORTNANT NOTE:  It is best not to allow a dog to get into this state of mind.  The handler should be able to notice building tension and calm and manage the dog before it gets to this state!  Be aware that a dog in this state may not be under the supervision of someone who knows how to mange and calm their dog.  Do not put yourself or your pet into a risky situation with a dog in this state.  Remove yourself very calmly and confidently from its vicinity.

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4. Fearful and Aggressive

The Above Dog is “Fearful and Aggressive” - This dog is frightened but is not submissive and may attack if pressed. A dog will generally give these signals when he is directly facing the individual who is threatening him.

A dog will generally give these signals when he is directly facing the individual who is threatening him.

The dogs posture will be lowered – trying to make itself lower, visually smaller and less threatening - generally the tail will be tucked between the legs (with little or no movement) – effectively masking it’s smell,  dogs that do this are ‘trying to disappear’ .It is giving ‘mixed signals’ as it is an a volatile state.

As in the other aggressive dog, the hackles are raised, the nose is wrinkled and the lips are curled and teeth may be visible, the corners of the mouth mwill be pulled back – the esrs tend to lay back more against the skull. 

Fear makes this animal highly unpredictable and in many cases, makes this dog more volatile and therefore more dangerous as it may actually act more aggressive than a more confident dominant dog.
Use CAUTION.

It is best to remove yourself and any pets in your care AWAY from a dog displaying this behaviour, move away calmly and confidently.

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5. Stressed and Distressed

Stressed and Distressed - This dog is under either social or environmental stress. These signals, however, are a general "broadcast" of his state of mind and are not being specifically addressed to any other individual.

The tail will be down, sometimes tucked completely under the body, the body will be lowered the ears will be held back against the skull and the pupils will be dilated and the dog will be panting frantically from the corner of its mouth.  YOU will also be able to see it’s footprints on most surfaces is will often be sweating profusely thrugh the pads of its feet, a clear sign of distress.

You will often see this behaviour in a dog that is lost and scared. Lost dogs are highly stressed by being separated from what they know and the humans and other part of their family that they trust. If you are trying to help these dogs – do NOT enter a fast ‘chase’ with them – they are in flight mode (as opposed to fight mode – chasing them to aggressively will make them more fearful and they are more likely to pick up speed to get away from you faster – getting low and non-threatening, kidding to them with some treats & water using a soft and gentle approach with your gestures and words and approaching with a slightly  sideways, not frontal,  demeanour can give them more confidence to approach you so that you can help them!)

If you see a dog like this, they may have been scared, are injured and in need of assistance, if you cannot approach them, observe them and determine where they ‘settle down’ so that you can rescue them, or assist rescuers to help them in the near future.

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6. Fearful and Worried

This dog is somewhat fearful and is offering signs of submission.

These signals are designed to pacify the individual who is of higher social status or whom the dog sees as potentially threatening, in order to avoid any further challenges and prevent conflict.

It’s body will be lowered , the tail will be lowered and may ‘wag’ slightly, the ears will be back against the skull and the dog will not make long standing direct eye contact. The dog will hold the back of the mouth backwards smoothing it muzzle and it’s forehead and will tend to lick at the more dominant animal in an appeasement movement.  Also a paw may be raised to show more submission and the paws will sweat leaving sweaty paw prints.  

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7. Extreme Fear- Total Submission

This dog is indicating total surrender and submission. He is trying to say that he accepts his lower status by grovelling before a higher ranking or threatening individual in the hopes of avoiding a physical confrontation.

The dog will roll over onto its back and expose its stomach and throat. It hold its ears flat and back against its skull and will turn away its head from the aggressor to avoid direct eye contact. The eyes will also tend to be partially closed and the mose and forehead will be smooth to indicat no aggression. The tail will be tucked up over the genitals in an attempt to mask it’s sent and become ‘invisible’ to the aggressor. The dog may also release a few drops of urine. All signals to an aggressor that this dog is not willing to fight. (this strategy can be highly successful in avoiding a fight with a stronger more aggressive dog and dogs displaying this understand dog behaviour that saves them from getting hurt by acting inappropriately with an aggressive animal)

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8. Playfulness

Here we have the basic invitation to play.

You can observe this in all ages of dog, and it is a delight to see!

It may be accompanied by excited barking or playful attacks and retreats. This set of signals may be used as a sort of "punctuation mark" to indicate that any previous rough behaviour was not meant as a threat or challenge.

The tail will be up (sometimes wagging fast or in happy wide arcs) the ears will be up – the pupils dilated and the mouth will be open and the tongue may be exposed. The dog will tend to drop it’s fron end with its paws forward – it may hold this position briefly – before it pops up and runs in a random direction – it may repeat this posturing over and over to invite other dogs (& other people & even cats) to come & play!

Please note that all of the behaviours noted here are COMMON in dogs and dogs generally understand the behavioural postures communication

Diagram showing various common cat behavioural body language complete postures above

Cat – Body Language - Facial postures - Ears

A cat's ears can communicate volumes as well. Here are some of the translations of your cat's ear movements:

Ears alert/straight up means:                                        “I'm ready for fun or affection."
Ears flat out sideways means:                                       "What's up?"
Ears downward is a warning; she means:                      "I'm defensive. Watch out!"
Ears down and back is an alarm; she is saying,              "I'm furious. Watch out!"

Cat – Body Language - Facial postures - Eyes

- Eyes wide open and looking at you means:                  "I'm listening."
- Eyes half closed means:                                             "I'm sleepy."
- Eye pupils in slits tell you that she is feeling:                 Alert and confident.
- Bug-eyed looks mean:                                                "I'm frightened."...so be careful!
- Eyes staring straight at you means,                             "Stay away." - A stare is a challenge.

If she is blinking and winking at you, she is saying        "I love you. I trust you – I am no threat!“

Use this same language with them and they will feel more confident and relaxed in your presence!

- If her eyes are clouded, then she is telling you:                       that she is ill**  or just very relaxed.

(If ‘clouded’ – and the cats third eyelid is dropping over the eye – make sure the cat is OK & alert to )

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Cat – Body Language - Tail

When a cat's tail is standing up tall:                  all is terrific. (this is how kittens happily greet their mothers!)

When it is at half-mast:                                    all is not terrific.

When it is dropped low,:                                  that means: “I’m very unhappy."

When it twitches back and forth,                       "back off.“

When only the tip twitches,                               she is trying to tell you that she is self conscious of her behaviour.

When it's bushy, she means,                            "I'm angry!" or

When it's bushy, she means,                            “I am excited” (So be careful not to overexcite the cat any further!

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Cat – Body Language

Cats have a very sophisticated non-verbal communications that you can learn to read and you can even mimic behaviours to help a cat to relax!  These techniques can be used to introduce yourself to a cat, to help a cat settle and to even rehabilitate cats that have lacked socialization so that they can become trusting and domesticated.

As a general rule – do not stare at a cat – this is often seen as a challenge or threat. In fact for cats – this is quite impolite!

If you know of people who dislike or are afraid of cats and complain that cats are always attracted to them – then it is because these people do not stare at cats or give them overt attention. These people, in not liking to look at cats, avoiding the sight of cats, are actually being very polite and non-threatening in this behaviour – so cats can see this as an invitation to become friends!

People who ADORE cats often complain that cats will not come to them – that is generally because they seek out the cats – scanning for them constantly – trying to find them and pry them out of hiding spots or picking them up for cuddles & pats.   When people stare at cats and give them overt attention – this can actually tend to make a cat keep their distance or remove themselves from the proximity of these people!

Perhaps this is the reason cats are considered less social, and more standoffish.  However it is simply because the cats natural behaviours make it interpret our human behaviours in the same way.

If you want to make a cat comfy in your presence – then read their body language – but not by staring at them – you can ‘flirt’ look at them – from the side of your eyes – and if you also gently blink your eyes slowly towards them – they will generally start to do the same with you.  Many rescuers call this things like “Blinky Winkies” or “Cat Kisses”…. When you blinky winky waround them – and they return the gesture = you should also see their posture become more relaxed and confident, They may even want to come and be in touch with you physically! .

Further to this, if you continue with a relaxed posture, no fast movements and allow yourself to ‘yawn’ in the cats presence – this can relax them more  - It may make the humans around you feel slighted – but their feline friends will feel that this is a compliment – that you can relax around them and therefore you are even less of a threat!

When you enter a cat’s environment:

FIRSTLY: Be very careful not to have a pet slink or rush past you if you are coming in an entrance/exit door to the outside world!

Getting a startled, shy or even playful cat back inside after they have scooted past you may prove almost completely impossible – so the first thing to do is to keep the pet safe inside the owners home.

As you enter, make sure that you enter in a quiet, unexcited and gentle manner – your demeanour should be calm and relaxed, (if you need to take a deep cleansing calming breathe before you enter a home to relax you after a hasty trip by foot, road or rail, do it – you will feel better and so will the pets and other people you come into contact with.

When you do enter, get inside and then take a moment to stand in the room you have entered, without moving so that the cat can access you before you approach.  (they may be hiding or out in the open observing you and your demeanour, at this point you can talk sweetly to them, but try not to make direct eye contact – or to approach the cat front on,  if in doubt sideways approach or posture is far less threatening!

Following is a range of body language information which will help you to access a cat’s behaviour &/or acceptance of your presence.

Reading your cat's body language   (article listed on 21 May 2006 - Pet Rescue Site)

Cats are sometimes thought of as mysterious creatures whose behaviour cannot be explained.

However, like all intelligent creatures, cats have very specific body language that pet carers can learn to interpret and use to form a better relationship with cats & kittens

The above diagrams showed cats body language from relaxed to more extreme states.

The body language matrix's here that show body postures, tail movement and also facial indiactors  (ears, eye and mouth postures) should be used in conjunncion with each other to read the evident state of mind - based on the behavioural indicators shown.

 A cat can either escalate into a more upset agressive state - or you can help and influence it to calm down by using some fothe body language techniques we have suggested. You will see the cat visibly relax when are getting it right - and visibly tense when you are getting it wrong... the cat is very easy to read once you know their body language!

By mimicking (never mocking)  the 'relaxed confident friendly' state behaviours of a cat - within the view of the cats you seek to befriend and care for, you WILL be communicating with them very effectively  - helping them to perceive you as friendly and NON threatening….. you will find It really DOES work!

Other “Predators: Ferrets, etc…– Body Language

Remember that all predator animals should be monitored at all times – so their access to other animals is also managed and limited.  This is for their health, safety and well being as well as the other animals that they could come into contact with.

You can treat a Ferret and other mammals that are predators in the same gentle, non threatening manner as you would a cat (different to dogs as they are pack animals and used to larger social groups and a hierarchy where you are the leader in most cases).

Ferrets:                                        (WIKIPEDIA)

Ferrets are crepuscular, which means they spend 14–18 hours a day asleep and are most active around the hours of dawn and dusk.[4] Unlike their polecat ancestors, which are solitary animals, ferrets will live happily in social groups. They are territorial, like to burrow, and prefer to sleep in an enclosed area.[5]

Like many other carnivores, ferrets have scent glands near their anus, the secretions from which are used in scent marking. It has been reported that ferrets can recognize individuals from these anal gland secretions, as well as the sex of unfamiliar individuals.[6] Ferrets may also use urine marking for sex and individual recognition.[7]

As with skunks, ferrets can release their anal gland secretions when startled or scared, but the smell is much less potent and dissipates rapidly. Most pet ferrets in the US are sold de-scented (anal glands removed). In many other parts of the world, including the UK and other European countries, de-scenting is considered unnecessary.

When excited, they may perform a routine commonly referred to as the “weasel war dance”, characterized by a frenzied series of sideways hops and bumping into things. This is often accompanied by a soft clucking noise, commonly referred to as dooking.[8]

SMALL MAMMALS & Birds - Body Language

Most are “Prey” animals in nature – Rabbits, Mice, Rats, Guinea Pigs, etc, plus all manner of Birdlife

Do not stare at them – this makes them nervous! – Predators stare ad so this is interpreted as a threat, challenge etc

Be gentle when handling these creatures.  They are very delicate with small and fragile bones.  At no time should they be held harshly or in a manner that could overstretch muscles and ligaments – nor on any way bruise soft tissue or potentially break tiny matchstick thin bones!

In fact only handle them when you really need to do so for good reason – only pet or handle them gently when they want the attention only!

Your Behaviour around them!

You should ALWAYS:

Be careful and gentle in movement – they are delicate!

Be quiet and soft in voice – both tone & your volume! – they are highly sensitive!

Be patient – we are huge and intimidating to them – always be gentle and tolerant!

Understand that we need to let them take their time and let them set the pace! - Use your time well!  Gain their trust - Then they will feel more confident and relaxed in your presence!

SMALL Animals –– Reptiles/Amphibians etc - Body Language

Whether a non mammal animal is a predator – they are also careful not to become prey and you need to be careful!

Your behaviour should be the same as with small mammals – these creatures are also quite delicate and need us to treat them with respect and caution.

ALL Predators – Play it SAFE – Or other PETS &/or Wildlife can become their Diet!

Cats and many predators – such as ferrets are obligate carnivores. The natural diet of their wild ancestors consisted of whole small prey, i.e., meat, organs, bones, skin, feathers, and fur. – So it is VERY important to keep them from pouncing on, hurting, killing &/or eating potential PREY animals at all times! (So protect your own pets, your clients’ pets & your native animals from being hunted and becoming PREY! (Including skinks, lizards even snakes and birds etc!!)

Dogs as omnivores also will prey upon small creatures as per the above – again – take care and keep PREY risks managed at all times!

Congratulations:

Now that you have completed this Pet First Aid training & Animal Behavioural Module component and agreed to the PSA Policies and Procedures you now have all PSA Qualifications to become a carer.

Once we have your ABN and your PBC (Police Background Check  &/or your Security Clearance) on record with us we will be able to book you for Jobs!

Once we have your Payment Account details we can pay you for the jobs you perform!

So please provide any outstanding documents or records to us as a matter of priority so that we can start booking you for jobs!

If you are having any issues with obtaining these items or documents please call us so we can help you!
 

J